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Stranger than Friction 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jody Jacobs, Michael Crowder - 1993
Page Views: 1,425
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Currahee - Stranger than Friction

Description 

Another nice friction climb with a steep start that makes stick-clipping the first bolt a prudent choice.

Follow the steep face to a small overhang (pro can be placed here or in the small vertical crack below it). Continue up the right side of a big flake and onto gradually easier terrain to the top.

Location 

About 50' right of Mikey's Mantle.

Protection 

Mixed; some small to medium gear is needed to supplement the three bolts. Bolted anchors at the top.


Photos of Stranger than Friction Slideshow Add Photo
Denmark makes the move onto the overhang as he leads Stranger than Friction.
Denmark makes the move onto the overhang as he lea...

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By Joey Wolfe
May 11, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I have never used a stick clip until the day I lead this climb. The ground drops away to the climbers right, so even though you only have to climb 10' to the first bolt, you'll fall 15' and roll/bounce another 10'.... over rocks. No ego that day. Great climb with pleasant moves and exciting but still (somewhat) safely spaced fixed pro.
By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
Jan 6, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are now bolts and rings at the top of this climb. Head more or less straight up (maybe slightly left) from the last bolt to the final overhang. Pull the overhang at a weakness (you can get gear in here), and the bolts will be on the face just above.
By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Jan 28, 2009

Good deal on the anchor station, if it's in the right location. I was going to go back and fix that, just never did, I always belayed from the pine tree cluster after going through the weakness in the little overhang at the top. If the station is just over the overhang, directly below the pine tree cluster, it should be good to go. Hopefully it'll put you back on the ground with a 60 meter rope. It's way better than traversing over to the Frictionary anchors like I've seen some folks do.
By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Feb 24, 2009

We did this route last weekend and the ring anchors are just right. Thanks go out to whoever installed them.
Also - I think this route should be rated 5.9+
By rosslbeard12
From: Buford
May 1, 2012

Great climb anchors are well placed somewhat difficult to find slightly left of the route under some pine trees great #2 Camalot before pulling the overhang at the top.

Anyone know what the route to the left of the flake is?