I avoided this route for years because of its funkous name, but it actually climbes quite nicely and is a good addition to the Project Wall.
Originally bolted in a aid solo frenzy in one afternoon by Duane Raleigh, this route collected cobwebs for a few years until George Squibb came along and freed it. It is one route left of Simply Read
, and goes into Simply Read
at the last bolt, sharing the same anchors.
Start with the second bolt pre-clipped (it would be nice to move this for free climbing) and bust a funky boulder problem to good holds under a roof. Stick in those knees, dyno high and left then work up flakes to a good jug. A final, complex boulder problem over the crux lip leads to a decent shake and some 12a getting up to the anchors.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 28, 2005
Onsighted by Spain's Pablo Rodriguez in Sept 2005. Daaaaaaamn.