Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | May 19, 2014 |
Page Views: | 623 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Jay Harrison on May 21, 2014 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Some years back, Todd Paris and I dragged his new rope up for an exploratory, "alpine" ascent along the then-remote South Corner Cliffs. Our line ran out of pro after a beautiful crack below a steep face, degenerating into a wandering mess. With some fixed gear in place, this is the "direct" version that we wanted to do.
Climb the short face onto the lower ramp, then step right onto a block and make an awkward mantle onto the next ramp (if you are tall enough, you can reach that ramp directly). Walk down 12' to the gorgeous vertical handcrack and climb it to its end at a small stance. Climb the knobs and plates above (passing 3 bolts) to easier ground and finish up at a fixed anchor. Alternatively, clamber up the brushy ledge to the next wall and climb something there.
It is possible - and much easier - to access the vertical crack by climbing directly up along the upper, narrow ramp. We chose to ascend as per the original Paris-Harrison alpine route, which is more interesting.
It is also more challenging (5.9, and the original means of ascent) to climb up the plates directly; but one can use holds to the left to gain a meter or two and thus avoid the initial lift-off crimps.
Climb the short face onto the lower ramp, then step right onto a block and make an awkward mantle onto the next ramp (if you are tall enough, you can reach that ramp directly). Walk down 12' to the gorgeous vertical handcrack and climb it to its end at a small stance. Climb the knobs and plates above (passing 3 bolts) to easier ground and finish up at a fixed anchor. Alternatively, clamber up the brushy ledge to the next wall and climb something there.
It is possible - and much easier - to access the vertical crack by climbing directly up along the upper, narrow ramp. We chose to ascend as per the original Paris-Harrison alpine route, which is more interesting.
It is also more challenging (5.9, and the original means of ascent) to climb up the plates directly; but one can use holds to the left to gain a meter or two and thus avoid the initial lift-off crimps.
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