Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Alcohol Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Friendship Route 
Gin Ricky 
Mai Tai 
Rob Roy 
Straight Shot 

Straight Shot 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Sal Mamusia, Paul VanBetten
Page Views: 1,539
Submitted By: Manjushri on Nov 19, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
going for the crimp, straight shot (11d). photo by...

Description 

Start just to the right of the main corner, stem your way into it and fire up with various stemming and crack technique to a roof. Pull around the right side and continue up the nice crack in a right facing corner above to the bolted anchor.


Location 

Just left of the Gin Ricky corner is a shorter, right facing corner with a roof about 2/3 of the way up, followed by a nice 1-2" crack.


Protection 

RP's, Nuts and cams to a #1 Camalot. Double up on fingers to the #1. Pro is good.



Photos of Straight Shot Slideshow Add Photo
darren climbing straight shot (11d).  photo by krautstrunk
darren climbing straight shot (11d). photo by kra...
Straight Shot (11d) follows the corner just left of center ending near the top of the photo at the white flake.
BETA PHOTO: Straight Shot (11d) follows the corner just left o...
Comments on Straight Shot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Gicklhorn
From: A Climbing Mecca Near You!
Jun 2, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Best route on the wall IMO if you climb the grade. Go for the onsight, it's strenuous and pretty wild, but the gear is great.

By paulmadry
Apr 25, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13

Its ok. Not best on the wall IMHO. It was actually my first 5.11d lead ever but i like stemming. After plaing blue alient its a bit runout. i placed RP which was 90%, then go to start of the crack up right- goor rest and pro.

By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Dec 5, 2013

I thought this was harder than the respective pitch on Cloud Tower. It's a shorter crux, but felt pretty desperate for me. I did fall on both of them though... but CT felt very reasonable in comparison.

Could probably be top roped rapping from gin ricky