Start left of Minnesota Fats at a thin hand crack. Climb up the left of two cracks. Great jams and stemming moves will get you over a flake/bulge. Continue up the crack to a tree and rap...or top out and walk off to the west.
A really good route that should clean up after more ascents.
Gear up to a blue Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Denver Nugget and Straight Out of Compton.
One way to do the crux.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gear up to #3.5 Camalot. The wall on the left side is still shedding and needs more of a scraping than a brushing. You can go left to the anchors for Golden Child to rap off.
Jul 22, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Not to be an ass, but the YDS is supposed to rate by the hardest move on a route. This route is 8-/8 on that scale. That said it, it is a one trick pony, although the start is also solid 7. I managed to use high feet and the left pocket to hit the horn with my right at the crux. My second claims you can extend your right hand to a jug near the proper of Denver Nugget to power through the crux. Fun moves though.