Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Brilliant Corners
Select Route:
Brilliant Corners 
Count Down 
Rootie Tootie 
Straight, No Chaser 

Straight, No Chaser 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Hurley
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: BALDY on Nov 4, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

One of the best 5.8s here. Up the blunt arete past bolts and a pin to a small ledge. You can either wimp right to a 5.6 chimney, or place some marginal gear (small alien and/or .75 camelot in a weird position) and keep heading up the arete on nice edges and rails.


Location 

The blunt arete just to the right of "Brilliant Corners."


Protection 

draws, small to medium gear



Comments on Straight, No Chaser Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

This route reminded me a bit of climbing in the Needles of South Dakota.

By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Sep 10, 2012

This climb has an R rating on NECLIMBS. Anyone have some feedback?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

I wouldn't really call it R. The start is bolted, and the second half has pretty good gear. There are a few moves past the piton that were a bit heady, but that's just because I didn't really trust the piton, which is a knifeblade in a horizontal. But the moves past the pin were relatively easy, maybe 5.6. Generally, I'd say this route is pretty well protected, with work. If 5.8 was my lead limit, I'd maybe want to TR it once before leading it.