Straight, No Chaser 5.8- PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | George Hurley |
| Submitted By: | BALDY on Nov 4, 2009 |
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Description One of the best 5.8s here. Up the blunt arete past bolts and a pin to a small ledge. You can either wimp right to a 5.6 chimney, or place some marginal gear (small alien and/or .75 camelot in a weird position) and keep heading up the arete on nice edges and rails.
Location The blunt arete just to the right of "Brilliant Corners."
Protection draws, small to medium gear
| Comments on Straight, No Chaser |
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 PG13
| This route reminded me a bit of climbing in the Needles of South Dakota. |
By JChepes
From: North Andover, MA
Sep 10, 2012
| This climb has an R rating on NECLIMBS. Anyone have some feedback? |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 PG13
| I wouldn't really call it R. The start is bolted, and the second half has pretty good gear. There are a few moves past the piton that were a bit heady, but that's just because I didn't really trust the piton, which is a knifeblade in a horizontal. But the moves past the pin were relatively easy, maybe 5.6. Generally, I'd say this route is pretty well protected, with work. If 5.8 was my lead limit, I'd maybe want to TR it once before leading it. |
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