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Chimney Rock
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Straight Arrow 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Marti Woerner (aka Sadhanna) 1971, FFA: Steve Grossman, John Steiger, 1982
Page Views: 635
Submitted By: Paul Davidson on Feb 18, 2009

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. . . just don't come off.

Description 

Climb the face right of Stonedmasters up past two bolts to a bulge. Once upon a time there was an old pin below the bulge. Squeezing the Lemmon no longer shows a pin on the topo.

Surmount the bulge and continue up.

Excellent and steep face climbing coupled with tricky nutting once made this a must do lead for admission to the Tucson hard man club.

While new fangled rubber and gear may have reduced some of the mystique of the lead, one would imagine the climb maintains some of its spicy nature.

From Steiger's guide:
"This imposing climb was initially freed using the rusted 1/4" bolts left from the 1st ascent.
With the advent of a replaced 3/8" bolt, an insecure voyage has become somewhat steadier.
An in obvious #2 hex placement in a hole provides bombproof protection for the crux bulge."

2nd pitch is your choice but finishing on Stonedmasters was considered the better form.

Location 

Right of Stonedmasters and left of Crows Nest and Ratline.

Protection 

Bolts, TCUs and the infamous #2 hex sideways.

At the bulge, find the hole, push your trusty #2 into the pocket and turn it 90 degress. Voila, a bomber wire. With "modern day gear" this climb is probably even more accessible (i.e. remove the PG13 notation.)
I recall finding wires both above and below the bulge.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 28, 2009

I did it with the #2 wired hex but really didn't need it and that was in the 80's. Still might be PG13.
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 14, 2012

Not 5.10 and (still) not safe. I finally figured out the #2 hex placement. You can get something else there, too, that will make you feel a little better about life before launching into the crux. Great climbing through the crux, but the choss begins sprouting higher up...
By Jimbo
Dec 14, 2012

I wonder if a big Alien would work in that slot. I know a tricam would, if they make them that big??
I agree with Andy the crux moves are way harder than 5.10.
I remember I was so excited to be alive I didn't notice any choss up higher because the gear was good.
By Paul Davidson
Dec 20, 2012

I thought Andy was down rating it, good for a chuckle.
5.10+ was an accurate rating for the day.
That's 10+, not 10.
Pbbly like 5.9+ at Grnt Mnt. ;-)
My memory is that at the time, that was a good rating relative to the other stuff in the area. Histoplasmosis was 5.11. This was easier.

I recall being psyched to get the #2 hex which according to Steve you push back into a hole, turn 90 degrees and voila, hang a truck. And while I placed it, I placed other stuff above it because it seemed as good and much quicker to place and if I remember right, was above the little lip and so higher into the crux. I don't recall any choss, but that doesn't mean much.
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 22, 2013

It's the slot's rock quality, not the geometry of the placement, that gave me the heebies...it's one of those placements ringed with that dark, crispy crust that you become so terribly familiar with after trad-climbing on Lemmon for awhile. Leading this pre-cams would probably have been much harder!