Straight and Narrow 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 340 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Tom Howard, Bruce Meneghin 1977 |
| Submitted By: | Nick Stayner on Sep 14, 2007 |
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Getting into the business on the 2nd pitch of Stra...
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Description One of the more aesthetic lines at Shortoff. Fun, continuous and varied climbing on good horizontals, with a few good locks for good measure. Great gear. Some pitches can be linked.
p1- Wide crack/chimney sorta thing with a dead tree a short ways up. The guidebook says to stop at this small tree and belay, but I've always continued all the way to a stance where the climbing obviously becomes harder. Also, not that it matters, but this pitch has seemed a lot harder than 5.5! More like 5.7, I think. "5.5", 140'
p2- Climb a left facing corner and eventually pull out onto the face to the right, at a point when you're underneath a roof. Continue up to a stance with a nice crack shooting off above and through a roof. Belay at this stance. 5.10a, 60 or 70'.
p3- Climb up the crack and through the roof on hero jugs! Continue running for the top through ever-easier terrain. Shull says this pitch is 140', but it's always seemed like a full 60 m. ropelength to get to the top of the cliff. 5.10a, 200'.
Location An obvious "splitter" (such a thing can't really exist in the sea of horizontals that is the Linville Gorge) route a short ways left of Construction Job.
Protection A standard rack to 3" with an emphasis on smaller stuff. Route has great stopper placements.
Straight & Narrow, Shortoff Mtn, NC
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| Comments on Straight and Narrow |
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By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Oct 8, 2007
| As mentioned, a great way to climb this route is in two pitches: p1 climb/stem the shallow chimney system to just below a roof, 150ish feet, 5.5. p2 climb the above mentioned business - corner, pull roof out onto a crimpy face, to the top of a block/pillar, keep going up the crack system, pull the second roof and belay somewhere on less vertical terrain, 130ish feet, 5.10a. |
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Oct 11, 2007
| One of my favorite routes anywhere! I usually do it in two pitches to the top: One long one to a ledge just below the start of the harder climbing (just below the 5.9+ corner). Then it's about 60 m to a tree over the lip. Done this way, that second pitch is just amazing! Watch for drag, and have a blast. |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 21, 2011
rating: 5.10-
| One of the best routes that I have done at this grade. We climbed it like Jeff, in two pitches. The easy climbing in the beginning is as fun as 5.5 can be for someone who is about to do a 5.10 pitch. Belay below the first roof, about 150 feet up. The second pitch is sustained and excellent... really great movement with good gear and a few short bits of true crack climbing! |
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 5, 2012
| We did it in three pitches. The second belay stance is not the most comfortable and it makes the second pitch quite short, but the position on the wall is super cool. Kinda has a big-wall feel. If you're in no rush and the weather is nice, it's a pretty cool place to hang out. |
By Monkey-sa
Apr 2, 2013
| Fun, Fun, Fun!!! Very aesthetic, just called to me as I turned the corner to gaze up at the wall. A must climb. The second pitch is sustained, tricky and amazing. As mentioned before, bring your small stuff. This is a must climb for those who like to climb aesthetic routes. |
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