Straight and Narrow 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | John Garson, Jeb Schenck, 1971 |
| Submitted By: | Stephen Marsh on Aug 1, 2005 |
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Enjoying the interesting moves on the start of Str...
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Description In the middle of LRM, look for an easy to identify dihedral (Straight & Narrow). Master of Sport is a left to right-angling crack to the left which joins S&N halfway up. This is a really good route, and NOT offwidth climbing.
Hand jamming, liebacking, and possibly [a little] wide technique will get you to the top. Starting in the large, left-facing corner ascend a double crack system which turns into a triple crack system. Gain a stance on a small platform. Leaving this to get to the bomber hand jams above is the crux. Belay at a large chockstone with slings around it. Check condition of slings before trusting!
There is a 2nd pitch option which continues up the wide crack to the top. This is the 3rd pitch of Drain Pipe, rated 5.4. Scramble down the backside.
Protection Small to medium cams, you don't need offwidth gear, may want extra webbing/slings in case rappel slings are bad
At the top.
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Wow! I've been wondering what this route was sinc...
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Scott taking a well deserved rest on a warm-up bur...
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View a few yards west of S & N.
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| Comments on Straight and Narrow |
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By nolteboy
Oct 24, 2005
| Maybe it was just the end of a long day, but this felt tough for the 5.8+ grade, even here at the 'Voo. A great route that needs a couple of bolts to descend from, instead of the rat's nest of slings currently in place. |
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.8+
| There are new bolts with rings at the top of this route. They are shared with the route "Master of Sport" and easy to spot from the base. A single 50 meter line will get you back down. |
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 10, 2008
rating: 5.8
| With those new bolts up there, it adds a very enjoyable 5.7-5.8 finish to this route. Rack from tips to fists, with doubles in tight hands to big hands (I carried doubles from 0.75 to 3 Camalots), and some nuts if you don't like trusting small gear. It's about 60 feet from base to bolts (the middle mark of my 70m was just hitting my belayer's device when I reached the ground). |
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 8, 2009
| Great 5.8+, don't miss the crack in the back (right side) on the start next time. |
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