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 ADVANCED
Land of the Rising Moon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Analog 
Blade Runner T 
Cross of Iron T 
Drainpipe Left Exit T 
Master of Sport T 
Moonrise Variation T 
Straight and Narrow T 
Unsorted Routes:

Straight and Narrow 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Garson, Jeb Schenck, 1971
Page Views: 2,664
Submitted By: Stephen Marsh on Aug 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Scott taking a well deserved rest on a warm-up bur...

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Description 

In the middle of LRM, look for an easy to identify dihedral (Straight & Narrow). Master of Sport is a left to right-angling crack to the left which joins S&N halfway up. This is a really good route, and NOT offwidth climbing.

Hand jamming, liebacking, and possibly [a little] wide technique will get you to the top. Starting in the large, left-facing corner ascend a double crack system which turns into a triple crack system. Gain a stance on a small platform. Leaving this to get to the bomber hand jams above is the crux. Belay at a large chockstone with slings around it. Check condition of slings before trusting!

There is a 2nd pitch option which continues up the wide crack to the top. This is the 3rd pitch of Drain Pipe, rated 5.4. Scramble down the backside.

Protection 

Small to medium cams, you don't need offwidth gear, may want extra webbing/slings in case rappel slings are bad


Photos of Straight and Narrow Slideshow Add Photo
At the top.
At the top.
Enjoying the interesting moves on the start of Straight & Narrow.
Enjoying the interesting moves on the start of Str...
Wow!  I've been wondering what this route was since 1993!  No guide book and some wandering took me to the base.  Cool route!
Wow! I've been wondering what this route was sinc...
View a few yards west of S & N.
View a few yards west of S & N.

Comments on Straight and Narrow Add Comment
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By nolteboy
Oct 24, 2005

Maybe it was just the end of a long day, but this felt tough for the 5.8+ grade, even here at the 'Voo. A great route that needs a couple of bolts to descend from, instead of the rat's nest of slings currently in place.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There are new bolts with rings at the top of this route. They are shared with the route "Master of Sport" and easy to spot from the base. A single 50 meter line will get you back down.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 10, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

With those new bolts up there, it adds a very enjoyable 5.7-5.8 finish to this route. Rack from tips to fists, with doubles in tight hands to big hands (I carried doubles from 0.75 to 3 Camalots), and some nuts if you don't like trusting small gear. It's about 60 feet from base to bolts (the middle mark of my 70m was just hitting my belayer's device when I reached the ground).
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 8, 2009

Great 5.8+, don't miss the crack in the back (right side) on the start next time.
By Christina kalb
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with Nolteboy that this felt tough for the grade (harder than some other Vedauwoo 5.8s that I've done). I used 2 #1 cams, 1 #2, #3, #0.5, and a couple of nuts and hexes. The slings are basically gone from the chockstone now, but you can rap from the bolts (60 meter makes it with plenty of extra rope).