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Routes in Ridge 1
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Adulterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Adultress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arrogant Bastard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bad Boy Boogie S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Casana Rojo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cyber Spraylord, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fist Full of Steel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fornicator, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ganas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Shower S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Impersonator, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Imposter, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Inseminator (only P1's 1st 70 ft) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inseminator, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Outlaw S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oversprayed And Worthless (AKA: The Ejaculator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Raging Hormones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Real Men of Genius S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shootin' Off At The Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shootin' Off At The Mouth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Silver Saddle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Straight A Student T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stranger (aka The Left Hand Route), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild Blue Yonder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Chris Weidner, December 19, 2014 |
| Page Views: | 955 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Dec 25, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
Clip the first five bolts of Ejaculator trending up and right. Instead of finishing right as for that route, head straight up the overhanging (and sharp!) hand and fist crack to the top of the wall. The crack itself is mid-5.10 and is a nice variation finish to Ejaculator.
There's a two-bolt anchor set back about ten feet to lower from. It's easy to walk up the back side to retrieve anchor draws. *This anchor was already there, so it's possible this route was already climbed. However, I haven't found any info on the crack and I believe the anchor was used to place anchors on the several sport routes that don't top out the wall.
There's a two-bolt anchor set back about ten feet to lower from. It's easy to walk up the back side to retrieve anchor draws. *This anchor was already there, so it's possible this route was already climbed. However, I haven't found any info on the crack and I believe the anchor was used to place anchors on the several sport routes that don't top out the wall.
Location
Scramble beneath Wild Blue Yonder to a ledge about 50 feet up. The first bolt is shared by Ganas, Ejaculator, and Straight A Student.
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