Strahlentod (Radiation Death)
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THE route to do here. It's one of the best 5.10s in the Frankenjura. Due to the date of the first ascent, it was likely named this in response to the Chernoble accident.
Climb up the overhanging rock trending slightly right for the first half before trending back left toward the anchor. This route is very onsight-friendly, but you can't spend too much time looking for the "best" hold. Due to the overhanging nature, you've only got so much time to choose your holds. Some ARE better than others, but if you can move off of it, I would recommend just moving.
Unfortunately, this route is also a little polished, so bring your chalk and come during low temps.
Second from the left.
5 bolts + anchor