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Straddle the Pony
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 3
votes
Routes in Vector Madness Wall
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Boy Cooper T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Colander Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Damn You Darwin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Doubling the Cube S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Halcyon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hop Rising Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lack of Principle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Magic School Bus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Worries T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pi in the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Straddle the Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tangent T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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TVC S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Vector Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Vertical Component T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zach's Theorem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Unknown? Peter Lenz and Leo Gokovski 8/30/12 |
| Page Views: | 870 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Gokovski on Aug 31, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
P1: Start climbing at the very base of the ridge. Easy climbing here.
Belay by slinging a boulder right before a 7 feet tall vertical section with a splitter finger crack.
P2: A single easy move (5.5-5.6) will get you over the vertical section and back to easy climbing. Tend to climb the right ridge. The quality of the rock deteriorates, and many loose blocks of variable size are present. Tread carefully. Sling a boulder at a stance 10 feet pass a knife-edge ridge, distinguishable by a right facing corner.
P3: Climb down from the belay back to the right-facing corner. climb the knife-edge/corner and turn to the face above (5.7+). This section is exposed and the gear less frequent than one may want. Take a look around, smile, and protect the crux moves with a nut or a sling tied onto a small rock bridge. a few moves up will take some more pro. Calculate your way directly up the face. After a small runout you may straddle the arete and place pro. On the next section the difficulty eases considerably. Sling yet another bolder and belay when it appear that the ridge takes more of a horizontal character.
P4/Exit: 4th class/easy 5th will lead you southbound on the ridge, which will terminate onto a short cliff. Exit left (East) by traversing a ledge with a big tree who's roots had separated a boulder from the main wall. Walk down the gully to your packs.
Belay by slinging a boulder right before a 7 feet tall vertical section with a splitter finger crack.
P2: A single easy move (5.5-5.6) will get you over the vertical section and back to easy climbing. Tend to climb the right ridge. The quality of the rock deteriorates, and many loose blocks of variable size are present. Tread carefully. Sling a boulder at a stance 10 feet pass a knife-edge ridge, distinguishable by a right facing corner.
P3: Climb down from the belay back to the right-facing corner. climb the knife-edge/corner and turn to the face above (5.7+). This section is exposed and the gear less frequent than one may want. Take a look around, smile, and protect the crux moves with a nut or a sling tied onto a small rock bridge. a few moves up will take some more pro. Calculate your way directly up the face. After a small runout you may straddle the arete and place pro. On the next section the difficulty eases considerably. Sling yet another bolder and belay when it appear that the ridge takes more of a horizontal character.
P4/Exit: 4th class/easy 5th will lead you southbound on the ridge, which will terminate onto a short cliff. Exit left (East) by traversing a ledge with a big tree who's roots had separated a boulder from the main wall. Walk down the gully to your packs.
Location
The route ascends the second ridge to the east of Glass Ocean Wall.
A faint trail in a steep and tree choked gully from Steort's Ridge will lead you to the base. Start at the very beginning of the ridge.
Descent: Walk off.
Note: No evidence of earlier passage en route were encountered. Due to the moderate nature of the route, However, it is plausible the line had been climbed in the past.
A faint trail in a steep and tree choked gully from Steort's Ridge will lead you to the base. Start at the very beginning of the ridge.
Descent: Walk off.
Note: No evidence of earlier passage en route were encountered. Due to the moderate nature of the route, However, it is plausible the line had been climbed in the past.
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