Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Cliffs of Insanity
|
A Hug from Andre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
Andre The Giant T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Back to the Beginning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Barlage / Lawlor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Battle of Wits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Big hair hard Dick T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Clandestine T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Clean Spaniard, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Farm Boy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Funny Farm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Inconceivable T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Inigo Montoya T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Insane in the Membrane T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
|
|
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Kelley Route 1 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Lightning Sand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Loony Bin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Memories of Seth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Mini Cave T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
O.C.D. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Ophidiophobia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Original Prepare to Die, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Padded Cell T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Prepare for Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Queen of Slime T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Skip to the End T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
TR T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Unknown (easy hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Unknown (fists to off fists) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Unknown (lower angle tight hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Unknown OW on far right T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Vinciny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Wind Rider, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Ramier, Steven Lucarelli (May, 2009) |
| Page Views: | 3,644 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Apr 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Warning there is route beta in this post for all you onsighters out there.
This route is simply stunning! Josh Janes saw the line and showed it to Tom and three trips later we had put up a mega classic! The route starts up a dirty sandy corner for about 15' but don't worry the choss ends here. Once above the corner the true climbing begins with a interesting offwidth that is formed by two arete's pointing towards each other. There is a hidden #1 Camalot placement inside this offwidth near the bottom that you can see if you stick your head into the crack (you'll need a sling for sure on this piece). After that we placed two bolts to protect the rest of the wide section.
From the top of the wide crack (There is a great kneebar, no hands rest here by the way) the crack changes to thin fingers in an open right facing corner. Layback and jam up this corner with increasing difficulty as the corner gets smaller and so does the crack. Place a final high piece (.2 Camalot) from a tips stance and try to gather your strength for the crux.
The crux moves are strenuous and powerful but here's the beta. Walk your feet up high on the left face of the corner while liebacking hard off the tips crack. Make a big reach with your right hand to a good face hold and gaston off it. From the gaston move your feet up some more and make another big reach with your left hand back to the crack where it opens up again to fingers. A couple more moves will get you firmly in the crack with some feet. From here the climbing eases and the crack widens to hands and the anchor.
The second pitch is not as hard, probably clocking in at about 11- but it would be a shame to miss with classic position and exposure. From the anchor chimney up about a body length to a good hand crack. Hand traverse out right to an airy stance and follow a large ovehanging right facing corner up to a roof. Big hands and/or fists get you over the roof and into a perfect chimney with nothing but air below. Climb up about 10 to 15 feet of unprotected but easy chimney to a great belay stance on the right.
Two 70m ropes will get you to the ground from the top of the second pitch with a fully free hanging rappel. Make sure you rap off the right side from the second anchor and not through the chimney. Two 60m ropes are needed to get down from the first anchor.
This route is simply stunning! Josh Janes saw the line and showed it to Tom and three trips later we had put up a mega classic! The route starts up a dirty sandy corner for about 15' but don't worry the choss ends here. Once above the corner the true climbing begins with a interesting offwidth that is formed by two arete's pointing towards each other. There is a hidden #1 Camalot placement inside this offwidth near the bottom that you can see if you stick your head into the crack (you'll need a sling for sure on this piece). After that we placed two bolts to protect the rest of the wide section.
From the top of the wide crack (There is a great kneebar, no hands rest here by the way) the crack changes to thin fingers in an open right facing corner. Layback and jam up this corner with increasing difficulty as the corner gets smaller and so does the crack. Place a final high piece (.2 Camalot) from a tips stance and try to gather your strength for the crux.
The crux moves are strenuous and powerful but here's the beta. Walk your feet up high on the left face of the corner while liebacking hard off the tips crack. Make a big reach with your right hand to a good face hold and gaston off it. From the gaston move your feet up some more and make another big reach with your left hand back to the crack where it opens up again to fingers. A couple more moves will get you firmly in the crack with some feet. From here the climbing eases and the crack widens to hands and the anchor.
The second pitch is not as hard, probably clocking in at about 11- but it would be a shame to miss with classic position and exposure. From the anchor chimney up about a body length to a good hand crack. Hand traverse out right to an airy stance and follow a large ovehanging right facing corner up to a roof. Big hands and/or fists get you over the roof and into a perfect chimney with nothing but air below. Climb up about 10 to 15 feet of unprotected but easy chimney to a great belay stance on the right.
Two 70m ropes will get you to the ground from the top of the second pitch with a fully free hanging rappel. Make sure you rap off the right side from the second anchor and not through the chimney. Two 60m ropes are needed to get down from the first anchor.
Location
This route is located to the right of Lobotomy. Just look up for a open right facing dihedral that leads to some large roofs that end at a open chimney. There is a plaque sitting below the route on top of a short pillar.
Protection
Note that all these sizes are for Camalots and this gear beta is from what I can remember but I errored on the side of more rather than less.
Pitch 1: (1).2, (3).3, (3).4, (3).5, (1).75, (2) 1, (2)2, (1)3.
Pitch 2: (2)2, (3)3, (1)3.5
You'll also want slings for the bottom of the first pitch and for under the roofs on the second pitch.
There are two bolts at each anchor. The anchor for the first pitch has chains and the second pitch has slings and a quick link.
Pitch 1: (1).2, (3).3, (3).4, (3).5, (1).75, (2) 1, (2)2, (1)3.
Pitch 2: (2)2, (3)3, (1)3.5
You'll also want slings for the bottom of the first pitch and for under the roofs on the second pitch.
There are two bolts at each anchor. The anchor for the first pitch has chains and the second pitch has slings and a quick link.
3 Comments