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Stout Blue Vein 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rick Thompson & Chris Lesher, July, 2001
Page Views: 3,890
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations.

Upda...

Description 

This route lies just uphill from the bolted 5.6/7 slab, Coloradoddity. It can be started with a ledge just off the ground before the first bolt, from here climb to 2 bolts and then traverse to the right approx. 6 feet and follow the bolt line to the top of the cliff. The crux comes at the traverse, and climbing straight up through the 2/3/4 bolt could be a little harder than 5.9+ as the feet are very slippery and precise. This is a good route but not worth 3 stars comparing it to the route just right and left of it. A great warmup route to do some of the more harder routes at Jurassic Park. Clean rock and a decent line, minus the little traverse.

Protection 

7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Stout Blue Vein Slideshow Add Photo
Some climber from the view atop Andrology.
Some climber from the view atop Andrology.
Always better on the top:)
Always better on the top:)
5.8+ in gusty winds.
5.8+ in gusty winds.
Tough 7 with wind.
BETA PHOTO: Tough 7 with wind.
On the easier upper half. You can avoid the crux by moving up and left at the second bolt and then diagonalling right, skipping the third bolt.
On the easier upper half. You can avoid the crux b...
Deb at 2nd bolt. Getting ready to traverse right.
Deb at 2nd bolt. Getting ready to traverse right.
Brian Maynes climbing Stout Blue Vein 10/11/03.
Brian Maynes climbing Stout Blue Vein 10/11/03.
Late March, 2014.
Late March, 2014.

Comments on Stout Blue Vein Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 25, 2012
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jan 30, 2002

This one's called: THE STOUT BLUE VEIN we thought it was 5.7+, but like any route should be graded what the concensus of people think it is. Sport climb, seven bolts in all. FA: Rick Thompson & Chris Lesher, July, 2001 As with COLORADODDITY a 50 meter rope will barely get you to the ground. Two stars - good call!

There is also a variation finish: 5.6, maybe harder given that all the routes we did on this face seem to be checking in harder than we thought they were. Description: After the second bolt aim directly up and join COLORADODDITY. FA: Rick Thompson, July, 2001.
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
May 5, 2002

I'm going along with Rick's call on the rating for this one. The only way you could possibly get a 5.8 even would be to climb the first 3 clips to the right of the bolts. Great route, perfect rock, perfect view !!
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 3, 2004

Rick, you have a serious sandbagging problem.
By willied
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 8, 2006

This climb is much easier than 5.9. My partner is 6'4" and thought it was as easy as Coloradoddity! I found the crux around the second bolt to be 5.7 - 5.8. Still, it was a fun climb.
By Eric Brehm
From: Louisville, CO
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The crux section -- hand traversing to the right below the second bolt on small cling holds and then stepping up to the third bolt -- is way out of character with the rest of the route, which is considerably easier. We felt this section was harder than 5.8. For me it was like doing a boulder problem in the middle of what would otherwise have been a fun romp up a lower angle slab. The hanger on the second bolt is loose -- I wonder if this is an indication that leaders have taken falls here when they were surprised by the difficulty of the traverse.
By Debbie Vischer
From: Loveland
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I agree with Eric. This route seemed more like a 5.9 to me, given the moves required thru bolts 2/3/4. I travered right after bolt 2, and pulled a tough move to bolt 3. Feet placement is thin - need to trust your feet and the rock!

Fun route with gorgeous views. A must do at Jurassic.
By Christina kalb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The difficulty of this route depends on how you climb it. Traverse a bit left of the 2nd bolt for a 5.8 climb, or go right, for a harder 5.9 or 5.10 version.
By Tits McGee
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you average the moves in between the third and fourth bolt (5.9ish) with the rest of the climb (5.5ish) you get a 5.8 - Fun route wish it had more 5.8ish moves.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2009

Traversing from bolt 2-3 is thin, fun and thoughtful. (5.9ish). After that the route pretty much turns into a walk, but still worth doing just for the bottom section.
By Jonathan Reeves
From: Golden, Colorado
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Transverse is fun but contrived between bolts 2 and 3. Easy after that. I would say its 5.9ish at the crux but 5.6 everywhere else.
By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 25, 2012

I didn't think the traverse was contived at all. When I did the climb, the obvious hand ledge traverse seemed like the natural way to go. Fun, thoughtful, & well protected, it makes the climb. The rest is way easier. If you're going to skip the traverse, then don't bother doing the climb.