Stout Blue Vein 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Rick Thompson & Chris Lesher, July, 2001 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001 |
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Brian Maynes climbing Stout Blue Vein 10/11/03.
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Description This route lies just uphill from the bolted 5.6/7 slab, Coloradoddity. It can be started with a ledge just off the ground before the first bolt, from here climb to 2 bolts and then traverse to the right approx. 6 feet and follow the bolt line to the top of the cliff. The crux comes at the traverse, and climbing straight up through the 2/3/4 bolt could be a little harder than 5.9+ as the feet are very slippery and precise. This is a good route but not worth 3 stars comparing it to the route just right and left of it. A great warmup route to do some of the more harder routes at Jurassic Park. Clean rock and a decent line, minus the little traverse.
Protection 7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Tough 7 with wind.
| 5.8+ in gusty winds.
| On the easier upper half. You can avoid the crux b...
| BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations. Upda...
| Always better on the top:)
| Deb at 2nd bolt. Getting ready to traverse right.
| Some climber from the view atop Andrology.
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| Comments on Stout Blue Vein |
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By Rick Thompson From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO Jan 30, 2002
| This one's called: THE STOUT BLUE VEIN we thought it was 5.7+, but like any route should be graded what the concensus of people think it is. Sport climb, seven bolts in all. FA: Rick Thompson & Chris Lesher, July, 2001 As with COLORADODDITY a 50 meter rope will barely get you to the ground. Two stars - good call! There is also a variation finish: 5.6, maybe harder given that all the routes we did on this face seem to be checking in harder than we thought they were. Description: After the second bolt aim directly up and join COLORADODDITY. FA: Rick Thompson, July, 2001. |
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn May 5, 2002
| I'm going along with Rick's call on the rating for this one. The only way you could possibly get a 5.8 even would be to climb the first 3 clips to the right of the bolts. Great route, perfect rock, perfect view !! |
By willied From: Loveland, CO Oct 8, 2006
| This climb is much easier than 5.9. My partner is 6'4" and thought it was as easy as Coloradoddity! I found the crux around the second bolt to be 5.7 - 5.8. Still, it was a fun climb. |
By Eric Brehm From: Louisville, CO Sep 18, 2007 rating: 5.9
| The crux section -- hand traversing to the right below the second bolt on small cling holds and then stepping up to the third bolt -- is way out of character with the rest of the route, which is considerably easier. We felt this section was harder than 5.8. For me it was like doing a boulder problem in the middle of what would otherwise have been a fun romp up a lower angle slab. The hanger on the second bolt is loose -- I wonder if this is an indication that leaders have taken falls here when they were surprised by the difficulty of the traverse. |
By Debbie Vischer From: Loveland May 5, 2008 rating: 5.9-
| I agree with Eric. This route seemed more like a 5.9 to me, given the moves required thru bolts 2/3/4. I travered right after bolt 2, and pulled a tough move to bolt 3. Feet placement is thin - need to trust your feet and the rock! Fun route with gorgeous views. A must do at Jurassic. |
By Christina kalb From: Boulder, CO Jun 2, 2008 rating: 5.8
| The difficulty of this route depends on how you climb it. Traverse a bit left of the 2nd bolt for a 5.8 climb, or go right, for a harder 5.9 or 5.10 version. |
By Tits McGee From: Boulder, CO May 18, 2009 rating: 5.8
| If you average the moves in between the third and fourth bolt (5.9ish) with the rest of the climb (5.5ish) you get a 5.8 - Fun route wish it had more 5.8ish moves. |
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO Aug 16, 2009
| Traversing from bolt 2-3 is thin, fun and thoughtful. (5.9ish). After that the route pretty much turns into a walk, but still worth doing just for the bottom section. |
By Jonathan Reeves From: Golden, Colorado Sep 20, 2009 rating: 5.8+
| Transverse is fun but contrived between bolts 2 and 3. Easy after that. I would say its 5.9ish at the crux but 5.6 everywhere else. |
By Brian Wright From: Glenwood Springs, Co Jul 27, 2012
| I found the traverse super contrived. If you skip the third bolt, like I saw many people do, I think a fair rating would be 5.7 R. Not my favorite climb here. |
By Sarah Meiser From: Boulder, Colorado Aug 25, 2012
| I didn't think the traverse was contived at all. When I did the climb, the obvious hand ledge traverse seemed like the natural way to go. Fun, thoughtful, & well protected, it makes the climb. The rest is way easier. If you're going to skip the traverse, then don't bother doing the climb. |
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