Pitch one takes you up a little gully to a slabby section. Belay at a comfortable stance. Pitch two goes up a tremendously fun left facing dihedral. Great stemming and jamming with excellent pro. Belay at the top of this feature. Pitch three heads up steep hand cracks. Veer left at the top of the cracks to find the anchor. You can descend with one 60 meter rope by doing two rappels. There is another bolted anchor directly below.
Come up the trail from road. Traverse left when you reach a wall and then head up talus to the main wall. The climb begins just to your left if you come directly up the talus.
Medium gear. Gear anchors for pitches 1 & 2, bolted anchor with rappel rings at the top.
Heather nearing the top of the steep hand cracks o...
Heather cleaning gear at the top of the gully on p...
Last summer we climbed this classic by headlamp un...
Kyle chilling at the 1st pitch's belay.
Travis at the pitch 2 anchor.
Nick belaying up Charlie on P1
The house sized cat claw marks.
BETA PHOTO: View from the top of pitch 2.
Jon Tierney cleaning...
|By Dustin Lagoy|
From: Western MA
Jun 10, 2011
Beautiful route, I spent a week in Acadia at the end of May and climbed this route once a day as a warm-up (or down). It is a great classic that shouldn't be missed. I would also like to submit the first record for a speed ascent of the climb at 18:58 from the time I (the leader) left the ground until both of us were off rappel at the bottom ;).
P.S. This route can be climbed easily with a 70m (likely a rope stretcher if using a 60) in one pitch with limited rope drag.
|By Barrett Stetson|
Jun 27, 2013
There is a nice looking crack to the right of the start of the 3rd pitch. Does anyone know what this is? It seems not far enough right for vacation cracks, but when I looked for vacation cracks from the description in the guidebook I wasn't sure I saw that either.
|By Peter Lewis|
From: Bridgton, Maine
Aug 18, 2014
This is full-value for the grade. And while I'm sure it can all be run together in one really long pitch, the three pitches break up easy on nice ledges and make it easy for climbers to see each other and communicate. The upper two pitches, in particular, are wonderful---steep, great moves, good gear (and perhaps verging on 5.7). On P.3, face moves out left and then a step back right make reaching the first gear easier. What a little gem. The rap anchor is up and left once you top out. Two raps to the ground.