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Unsorted Routes:

Stormy Weather 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unpublished
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Looking up at the route from the bottom.

Description 

Stormy Weather takes the arete and face on the left side of Surreal Estate Wall. While the easiest way up the wall, and usually given less recognition than the bigger brothers on the main wall, Stormy is actually a very interesting climb. Hike up the face on edges where you can choose to stem off left or stay straight up on the face. Logic foe me uses the stem since it is well within reach and a real contrivance to avoid. Good moves on corners and edges gains a switch to the left, really on the arete. Power up a bulge on good Shelf Road pockets. What makes the line interesting in my mind is the position of the climbing and the diversity of the rock. Just as good as the big boys on the right, and probably never harder than 11a.

Protection 

Eight to ten draws and a rope.


Photos of Stormy Weather Slideshow Add Photo
Crux of the climb is the bulge just above the over...
BETA PHOTO: Crux of the climb is the bulge just above the over...

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By Jesse Ryan
Mar 31, 2003

If you attack this straight on at the first bolt it involves cranking on some pretty small holds (a mono and a shallow bi at one point). I'd say it's very stiff for 11a at the start done this way, while the rest is never harder than 10+ (like the roof above). For my height and reach (over 5'9" w/ negative ape) I found that if you were to climb stemming to the left, you wouldn't be able to clip until the second bolt. Definately a worthy line any way it's done.
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 29, 2007

I will concur with Jesse - this route is definitely not 10d if you attack this straight on. I think this might be due to the fact that the original route was retrobolted. The first clip is definitely tough and sequency (and I am 6'2").