2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
I agree with the poster above that these bolts are placed in extremely poor taste. This is a squeeze line placed adjacent to ultra-classic clean lines pioneered in the early 1960s. These bolts are immediately left of Curving Crack and the route name does not match the write-up above.
Will the person who placed these bolts please take it upon themselves to carefully remove these bolts without damaging the rock any more than they already have? That would show some integrity.
While possibly "a sqeeze job" at first site, this route climbs extremely well. The bolts in no way impede on routes to the right or left. It looks to be about 5.8 but certainly feels like 11b once you're on it. I was glad to clip each bolt, especially the last one. A worthy addition; put in by a guy who has been a silent steward of Castle Rock for some time now.
Did not get a chance to climb this line today but saw it for the 1st time and thought it looked great!! I can't wait to climb it and it looks like it has plenty of room to be a great line on its own. Looks like fun. Nice work!!
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Mar 13, 2010 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
Great route. My partner used the arete to move past the second bolt and then straight up past it second go round. Awesome sloper slapping up and super crimp pulling. Short but sweet.
IMHO, NOT a squeeze job at all as you can't use either crack to protect this climb on lead in any way. If you want to argue that it should have been top roped only, fine, but how many people go out looking to TR stuff? I see no problem here.
It is NOT a squeeze job or whatever. It is a pretty good route, pretty well bolted. Does not need any more or any less bolts. Definitely a good addition to Castle Rock. "One can easily toprope this line".... I am sorry, but this is dumb. One can easily toprope Gill Crack, but many people actually lead it or boulder.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2011 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
To the above, the obvious retort is "maybe so, but nobody bolted Gill Crack." For my own part, I can see this one going either way. The lead is different that a TR because you have to get stances to clip on lead, whereas you can just slap away on TR. However, I can see it feeling a bit close to Curving Crack too.
Too bad it's not a few feet further away such that it would be evaluated more on it's own merit, as the climbing is actually pretty novel and interesting. But where it is is where it is and the historical precedent of the climbs surrounding it leave it in a compromised position.
The climbing is all tension and slopers. Mid-5.11 sounds about right. I don't think 11a nor 11d.
Tried it today fanlly on TR! And got worked! Lol. Great line. Wild blunt arÍte and face climbing.
By Todd Felix Nov 4, 2013 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
This is a great route! And reasonably protected. It's too bad you kinda have to start on Curving Crack, but that doesn't make it a squeeze job; the rest of the route has spectacular, independent climbing. Very worthwhile addition. I can't believe I never climbed it before.
I do wonder about all the hammer (?) marks all over one of the middle bolts??
By Dwight Jugornot From: Arvada, Co. Nov 16, 2013 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
What a great route. Excellent face moves down low and then a superb balancy crux to arÍte climbing. A worthy addition! You could top rope it, but...why? Leading this route will put a smile on your face!