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Storming the Castle 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Topher Donahue
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,961
Submitted By: Mike C. Robinson on Mar 9, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: The 4 bolts (and 2-bolt anchor) of Storming the Ca...
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Description 

The crux is 2/3 of the way up. It is a fun route.


Location 

This is on the face/arete right of Comeback Crack and left of Curving Crack. It is a new route, 1 year old.


Protection 

Bolts.



Photos of Storming the Castle Slideshow Add Photo
Storming the Castle.
Storming the Castle.
Josh demonstrating his master technique, toprope be damned.
Josh demonstrating his master technique, toprope b...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 16, 2013
By Jimn Seiler
From: North Platte, NE
Jun 25, 2007

What is the bolted route directly to the right of Comeback Crack? It goes up maybe 4 or 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor to the best of my recollections

By Ben Walburn
Jul 13, 2007

I was recently up at Castle Rock and saw this new bolt line. It is, in my opinion, put up in extremely poor taste. One can easily toprope this line. There are 3 bolts within 7 - 8 feet of each other and the climb is only 35ft. tall. The routes that didn't get bolted by the masses of developers over the past 3 decades were not chosen for good reasons.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 22, 2007

Access issues? what!? in Boulder Canyon? you gotta be kidding. It's Boulder Canyon, land of the bolted cracks!!! Yeah!!! Welcome to Boulder Canyon!!!!

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 14, 2007

Has Headline actually been redpointed yet?

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 10, 2008

The actual Headline is the route/project that branches left of Deadline and is probably 5.14. Maybe a renaming of whatever the 5.11 is would be in order?

By RalphE
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2008

I agree with the poster above that these bolts are placed in extremely poor taste. This is a squeeze line placed adjacent to ultra-classic clean lines pioneered in the early 1960s. These bolts are immediately left of Curving Crack and the route name does not match the write-up above.

Will the person who placed these bolts please take it upon themselves to carefully remove these bolts without damaging the rock any more than they already have? That would show some integrity.

By Todd Ritter
From: Lafayette
Aug 12, 2009

While possibly "a sqeeze job" at first site, this route climbs extremely well. The bolts in no way impede on routes to the right or left. It looks to be about 5.8 but certainly feels like 11b once you're on it. I was glad to clip each bolt, especially the last one. A worthy addition; put in by a guy who has been a silent steward of Castle Rock for some time now.

By Luke Childers
Jan 31, 2010

Did not get a chance to climb this line today but saw it for the 1st time and thought it looked great!! I can't wait to climb it and it looks like it has plenty of room to be a great line on its own. Looks like fun. Nice work!!

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 13, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Great route. My partner used the arete to move past the second bolt and then straight up past it second go round. Awesome sloper slapping up and super crimp pulling. Short but sweet.

IMHO, NOT a squeeze job at all as you can't use either crack to protect this climb on lead in any way. If you want to argue that it should have been top roped only, fine, but how many people go out looking to TR stuff? I see no problem here.

By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
May 26, 2011

I agree, super fun line that definitely adds to Castle Rock. If it were only a toprope line, I never would have been interested in it.

By Peter
From: Tempe, AZ
Sep 13, 2011

It is NOT a squeeze job or whatever. It is a pretty good route, pretty well bolted. Does not need any more or any less bolts. Definitely a good addition to Castle Rock. "One can easily toprope this line".... I am sorry, but this is dumb. One can easily toprope Gill Crack, but many people actually lead it or boulder.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

To the above, the obvious retort is "maybe so, but nobody bolted Gill Crack."
For my own part, I can see this one going either way. The lead is different that a TR because you have to get stances to clip on lead, whereas you can just slap away on TR. However, I can see it feeling a bit close to Curving Crack too.

Too bad it's not a few feet further away such that it would be evaluated more on it's own merit, as the climbing is actually pretty novel and interesting. But where it is is where it is and the historical precedent of the climbs surrounding it leave it in a compromised position.

The climbing is all tension and slopers. Mid-5.11 sounds about right. I don't think 11a nor 11d.

By Tombo
From: Boulder
Mar 27, 2012

Great sport route requires thought and precision. Not over bolted or squeezed like may Boulder Canyon sport routes. I look forward to losing weight and trying to lead.

By Luke Childers
Sep 6, 2012

Tried it today fanlly on TR! And got worked! Lol. Great line. Wild blunt arÍte and face climbing.

By Todd Felix
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

This is a great route! And reasonably protected. It's too bad you kinda have to start on Curving Crack, but that doesn't make it a squeeze job; the rest of the route has spectacular, independent climbing. Very worthwhile addition. I can't believe I never climbed it before.

I do wonder about all the hammer (?) marks all over one of the middle bolts??

By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Nov 16, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

What a great route. Excellent face moves down low and then a superb balancy crux to arÍte climbing. A worthy addition! You could top rope it, but...why? Leading this route will put a smile on your face!