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California
> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> El Cajon Mountain
> Wedge
> Center/Headwall
Storm
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Center/Headwall
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Black Castle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Center Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Commander, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Diamond of San Diego S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Right as Rain T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snaggle Puss S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sole Purpose S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Storm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Supply Line S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tears of Envy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Randy Leavitt & Friends |
| Page Views: | 1,990 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Graham Roff on Apr 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here: fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan…
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Description
This is one of the few routes up El Cap wall that goes mostly on natural protection. Four or five pitches take you all the way to the top.
P1 (5.10) - Start in a wide, dirty, burned out crack for 60 ft. Continue up the low angle, rubble strewn area with loose rock to a large ledge. Yep, the first pitch sucks. You can skip this by climbing the first pitch of Supply Line, slightly to the right.
P2 (5.6, listed as P3 in the guide) - From the middle of the big ledge climb easy terrain past 5 bolts and a few gear placements to the anchor more or less directly above.
P3 (5.10 PG13, P4 in the guide) - This is the crux pitch. Traverse slightly to the left from the belay, clipping one bolt before heading up the crack past another bolt. Continue up the arete placing gear where possible (PG13). At the large roof head up and left and belay either at the rap anchors in the face or continue up and left a little further to the large ledge (gear anchor).
P4 (5.8 PG13, P5 in the guide) - From the large ledge climb through the tree straight up the offwidth, unprotected, wet crack past a solitary bolt. Pull over the roof to the right and wander upwards until the top.
P1 (5.10) - Start in a wide, dirty, burned out crack for 60 ft. Continue up the low angle, rubble strewn area with loose rock to a large ledge. Yep, the first pitch sucks. You can skip this by climbing the first pitch of Supply Line, slightly to the right.
P2 (5.6, listed as P3 in the guide) - From the middle of the big ledge climb easy terrain past 5 bolts and a few gear placements to the anchor more or less directly above.
P3 (5.10 PG13, P4 in the guide) - This is the crux pitch. Traverse slightly to the left from the belay, clipping one bolt before heading up the crack past another bolt. Continue up the arete placing gear where possible (PG13). At the large roof head up and left and belay either at the rap anchors in the face or continue up and left a little further to the large ledge (gear anchor).
P4 (5.8 PG13, P5 in the guide) - From the large ledge climb through the tree straight up the offwidth, unprotected, wet crack past a solitary bolt. Pull over the roof to the right and wander upwards until the top.
Location
From the top it is four rappels down to the bottom following a number of possible rappel lines.
Protection
The protection is good on the first and second pitches (second pitch also has 5 bolts). The third pitch has a few bolts and protects somewhat poorly with small cams, PG13.
The last pitch has one bolt through the offwidth section, and abundant gear if necessary through the much easier section to the top.
The last pitch has one bolt through the offwidth section, and abundant gear if necessary through the much easier section to the top.
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