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Raven Rocks: East Face
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Balancing Act S 
Little Red Book S 
Little Stiffy S 
Stop The Madness S 

Stop The Madness 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Season: winter, spring, fall
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 21, 2006

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Description 

Start just left of Little Stiffy. Climb huecos with side-pulls and underclings to a big iron cross and a crux high step to the anchor. Sustained and powerful.


Location 

Start just left of Little Stiffy.


Protection 

Bolts to cold-shut anchor



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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 12, 2012

We set this route up on TR from the anchor of Little Stiffy. I know, I know... Should lead anything you want to climb, but if you're interested in the grade, not a bad way to go. I really have no idea how the crux portion of this route is supposed to go. There was chalk way out to the left, which I think is off route and defeats the .12 crux section challenge. I would be really interested to see someone send it. Very well protected, in any case. Seemed like a long boulder problem. Very intricate and fun! On TR, getting to the first and second bolts wasn't an issue. Will have to go on the "to do" list.