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Stop Making Sense  

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Steiger, Ray Ringle, 1986
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011

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EFR’s 2000 guide (Squeezing II) says of this route: “Forget good sense if you try leading this super hard slab with a long 5.10+ runout at the end.” I don’t remember much about the FA, but I thought I’d post this up to try to stimulate someone to climb it, so they can tell me what I’ve forgotten. I do recall numerous tries (always lowering to a rest, of course; these were the ground-up, no dogging years) with classic time-release footholds and making do with barely visible rugosities. EFR rates this as 5.12 R, but I’m pretty sure we called it 5.12a, and we didn’t think of it as particularly unsafe, but I’ll give it 12b here just to stroke my aging ego. Free Wasatch Devastators (a really good double bock) to anyone who has led it and meets me in SLC (offer expires 2015). Oh ya, the description: Climb the bolt line up the middle of the slab left of the Shanashee and Shanadoo start.


Find the base of Shanashee on the lower west face of Neptune. Walk left out the 3rd class ledge system (which also accesses the original first pitch of Warm and Free).


Draws and some sort of rack (I don’t remember). Gear belay.

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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 17, 2011

Hey John, Dave Merin replaced most of the hardware on this one a few months ago. I think one of the old bolts still needs to be removed; I will clean that up the next time I am at the Reef.

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