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 ADVANCED
Butterfly Wall
Routes Sorted
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Firefly S 
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Papillon S 
Phantom Fear S 
Rufous T,S 
Stoop S 

Stoop 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Prewitt, Brent Silvester
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: Chris Prewitt on Oct 21, 2009

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Description 

A long varied route in the center of a great wall. Technical face climbing on a few thin crimps leads to a good rest below the brown overhang. Climb through this to the juggy arete above which has one more cruxy bit before the last bolt.

Location 

Middle of the Butterfly Wall, this is the brown overhang and green arete.

Protection 

12 bolts + anchor, 70M rope


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By Brent Silvester
Oct 22, 2009

THIN face climbing. It kind of gets hard really quickly, but leads to a really fun finsih.
By Chris Prewitt
Apr 29, 2012

This route probably needs another bolt on the upper arete. The climbing is relatively juggy, but the runout may be a bit excessive. I'm interested to hear thoughts from those who've been on it?

It does have a wide variety of moves on interesting holds of all sizes with a fair amount of air to boot.