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This route begins about 30' up and to the left of the large cleft in the center of the formation. It's to the left of "Desperado". Climb a groove and cracks to the left end of the summit roof. Step left then to the summit. The crack to the right and a bit below the summit is a variation climbed by me as second--on the rope-- on this route (5.10b).
Sep 8, 2006
I did the top variation and agree, 5.10b.