Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Stoney Point
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Unassigned User
Mar 6, 2013
I will be traveling to Santa Barbara from OC and wanting to climb along the way. I was thinking about stopping at Stoney Point,been there once before and was amazed by how much awesomness was there. Anyone interested in climbing or bouldering? I will belay you on anything and throw myself at just about anything but I usually climb around 5.9-5.10 some days/areas softer. I don't boulder much other than for training in my gym so I honestly have no clue what that is. Probably V0 haha.

I have a rack and a rope so shoot me a message if you want to blow the evening at Stoney Point.
Oh and how is the rain there? If Stoney gets rained on that rock is probably pretty unclimable...

FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 6, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
J.... don't know what day you planning on...

SP has climbers hanging out at all hours, AM or PM dosent matter.

Most just boulder and not to much rope climbing going on.

Tues and Thursday are the big days, late afternoon to dark.

Top Rope Tuesdays, hosted by M. Waugh and "PYRO" might start up once daylight savings rolls around. A pretty fun thing to do.

And your correct about the rain.... the rule of thumb is this: If the ground is muddy don't climb. If its just sort of damp, like after a weak rain... stay off the problems with edges. The mantles and the large hold problems are good to go. Once it gets hot... find the shade. SP also gets the afternoon sea breeze starting around 3 or 4 so it gets much cooler than say WoodLand Hills or Reseda


Stoney is pretty awesome, I love it when you get a bunch of folks urgeing you on to SEND.

Come on out and say hi.

FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 6, 2013
Guy Keesee wrote:
J.... don't know what day you planning on... SP has climbers hanging out at all hours, AM or PM dosent matter. Most just boulder and not to much rope climbing going on. Tues and Thursday are the big days, late afternoon to dark. Top Rope Tuesdays, hosted by M. Waugh and "PYRO" might start up once daylight savings rolls around. A pretty fun thing to do. And your correct about the rain.... the rule of thumb is this: If the ground is muddy don't climb. If its just sort of damp, like after a weak rain... stay off the problems with edges. The mantles and the large hold problems are good to go. Once it gets hot... find the shade. SP also gets the afternoon sea breeze starting around 3 or 4 so it gets much cooler than say WoodLand Hills or Reseda Stoney is pretty awesome, I love it when you get a bunch of folks urgeing you on to SEND. Come on out and say hi.



Whoops thanks Guy! I will coming into Stoney area probably this coming up Sat. afternoon.

FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 12, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Stoney is in Prime condition now...

And a big Thank You to who ever cleaned up/ camo / erased the latest "artwork" that was so painfully visible from Topanga Canyon...


FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 12, 2013
Glad to hear that Guy!... Did not make it out last weekend, hoping to get out there on one of my road trips through the area.

FLAG
By Nick Mudd
Mar 12, 2013
Nick1
Guy Keesee wrote:
J.... don't know what day you planning on... SP has climbers hanging out at all hours, AM or PM dosent matter. Most just boulder and not to much rope climbing going on.



Guy is right about Stoney being primarily a bouldering area, but there is actually quite a lot of roped climbing at Stoney Point, especially on weekends. Most of it goes on in the canyons around the back side of the park, so you don't see much of it from the road & boulder areas. There are dozens of 30-50ft top-rope routes ranging from 5.0 to 5.12+, and several trad and aid routes. Sculpture's Crack 5.10c is a classic that you should definitely try to get on while you're here. The West-facing walls (Jesus, Pink Drips, etc.) are longer (80-100ft) but don't see much traffic.

FLAG
By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Mar 12, 2013
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...
I think to say there is trad at Stoney is misleading and possibly dangerous misinformation. Just because some of the rock/routes take gear does not mean they will hold gear.

I am not a trad climber, but I am a primarily Stoney climber for the last 7 years. I've seen a lot of people get hurt there and a lot of holds break. Treat any trad routes at Stoney as freesolos that you can practice placing gear on. Even if your gear holds, it will likely weaken or alter the routes. Just place a toprope. It's easy and has been the accepted practice for a long time.

I saw someone leading one of the aid problems the other day and it blows my mind to think someone would risk taking a fall on a bolt in Stoney sandstone. Body weight is one thing...

Stoney seems to have more incidents than most crags and for no good reason.

FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 12, 2013
Rob Gordon wrote:
I think to say there is trad at Stoney is misleading and possibly dangerous misinformation. Just because some of the rock/routes take gear does not mean they will hold gear. I am not a trad climber, but I am a primarily Stoney climber for the last 7 years. I've seen a lot of people get hurt there and a lot of holds break. Treat any trad routes at Stoney as freesolos that you can practice placing gear on. Even if your gear holds, it will likely weaken or alter the routes. Just place a toprope. It's easy and has been the accepted practice for a long time. I saw someone leading one of the aid problems the other day and it blows my mind to think someone would risk taking a fall on a bolt in Stoney sandstone. Body weight is one thing... Stoney seems to have more incidents than most crags and for no good reason.



Rob I agree, the one time I was there we top roped a lot of stuff, it was fun. I would not lead anything there.

FLAG
 
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 12, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Rob... correct about leading.... Way back in THE day, when I was young, I fugured I could lead the A FRAME - Right side... you get in great bomber hexes and stoppers...

Well I came off at crux and the stopper did not slow me down... decked hard.

So that was the end of the Royal Robbins style of climbing at SP.

If Waugh and Pyro start setting up "Top Rope Tuesdays" again, I will post it here. Its pretty cool to go from one TR to the next as fast as you can. Makes you feel like your really climbing.

Peace

FLAG
By Nick Mudd
Mar 12, 2013
Nick1
There are three routes that (in my opinion) can be led without much danger to the climber or the rock;

1. Potholes Crack on the Back Wall-the crack is deep enough to fit cams pretty far in where the more solid rock is, and the walls of the crack are a lot harder and more consolidated than most of the rock in the area.

2. East Wall Crack in Nabisco Canyon-same story as Potholes. And it's easy enough that if you're worried about falling off you probably shouldn't be leading it anyway.

3. The chimney on the left side of the Jesus wall. Haven't led it personally but I've top-roped it and it looked like it would take gear pretty solidly.

Definitely agree that the aid ladders are a bit of a deathtrap, but I do see people on them from time to time.

FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 12, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Definitely agree that the aid ladders are a bit of a deathtrap, but I do see people on them from time to time.

Nick, your correct about the three climbs you listed. If one wants to do some aid (C1) the bolt ladder on the Jesus Face was replaced about 3 years ago.

I know some folks who like to climb up at nite and set up a portaledge bivy and party.

Just keep the lights off, last summer the PoPo got called out for a "Climber Stuck on The Wall" about 1:00 am.... the police were not happy at all.

One time I was climbing that by moonlight and when I popped over the top, I interrupted a loving couple.... they didn't stop untill I said "excuse me I need to clip the anchor, so my friends can come up"

Ahhhhh Stoney Point.... so much has gone down at that little scruffy pile of sandstone.

FLAG
By Nick Mudd
Mar 12, 2013
Nick1
I love it when a discussion involving several opinions ends in agreement :)

And @ J Hazard, I'd offer to climb with you at Stoney this weekend but I think we'll be in Ojai. Shoot me a message if you want to hit the Black Wall or Foothill Crag on Sunday.

FLAG
By Unassigned User
Mar 12, 2013
Things are up in the air right now nick but should all my current plans go up in smoke I will hit you up.

FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 19, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
"should all my current plans go up in smoke I will hit you up."


Stoney Point bump.........


JH.... just show up, you will be taken care of by the friendly locals.

FLAG
By Luke W Brigham
Mar 21, 2013
top of white whale, lumpy ridge
First timer at stoney point yesterday, damn was it awesome! Thanks for the hospitality Guy, nice meeting you

FLAG
By morebetaplz
From San Francisco, CA
Mar 25, 2013
opening move on Guilty as Charged...barefoot!
Any suggestions on how to get to Stoney Point from Pasadena without a car...is there a bus that runs nearby? Anyone plan on going this afternoon/evening? I'm itching to climb...

FLAG
 
By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Mar 25, 2013
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...
Morebeta- I think your best bet would be to take the subway to Canoga Park then the bus up topanga.

I might climb today, but haven't decided. Will be there Wednesday for sure.

FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 26, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Luke... likewise, see you soon.

The Metro Line stops in Chatsworth, down at Lassen. From there its about 2 miles to Stoney.

I know some folks are starting to ride bikes out there.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.