|Tioga Cliff Area aka Private Property
A real gem and arguably one of the best routes (and its fully trad!!) at the cliff! One of the better routes of the grade/style in the area! Way better (and more solid) than it looks. Definitely has cleaned up since the first time I was on it maybe 10 years ago!
Steep blocks and 5.9 jamming gets you to a funky section with cool moves up and left (Red Alien size in the low flare -- #0 TCU or #00 TCU (better) in the middle of the 10d-ish moves). A 5.10 section with good gear links into the upper headwall seam and radical crux bulge. A #6 Stopper is bomber in an obvious hole before stemming moves up and out right. Its too hard to get anything worth trying to place before the last opening in the seam just before the bulge. Place a nut (#5 HB) low and shallow or a BD .1 Micro-Camalot from a barndoor stance/stem. Now the door is swinging wide open. Control the urge to swing out and punch it! Lieback, pinch and yard yourself over the bulge to a jam and good edges where a #1 TCU fits nicely. Cruise to the bolted anchor...11d/12a
offset brass piece for crux (#5 HB is best) or .1 BD Micro Camalot (better yet), full set of wired nuts, cams from #00 TCU to #2 Camalot sizes