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Chimney Rock
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Mistaken Identity T 
New Year's Eve T 
Perfect Peter T 
Shriveled Penis T 
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Standard Route T 
Stonedmasters T 
Stoner's Boner T 
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Stripper T 
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Unstrung Harp T 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs T,TR 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs. T,S,TR 
Veranda T 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 

Stoner's Boner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike McEwen 1976
Page Views: 2,756
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Katie on Stoner's Boner

Description 

The FFA's of Stoner's Boner and Mistaken Identity to the left, were both done thinking each climb was the other climb, and hence (I'm assuming) the names.

Stoner's Boner starts very roughly 50 feet right of George's Buttress at the left side of Chimney Rock. It climbs a parallel crack system in a recess just left of a big block against the base of the cliff. The block is the start of Centerpiece. A short ways up the left crack is a tiny pine tree.

Having never done the route before, it was a little confusing at times as to which crack to climb. This is how I did it:

Up the slab and step right to the right crack. Stem the two cracks. When it steepens, step over to the left crack below a bulge. The right crack might be easier, but the left crack looks like the better line. Getting past this bulge and established in the wider crack above is the first crux. I laybacked left and reach some horizontals.

Above this easier climbing leads a bit right to a good stance. There is a roof above. The left crack continues past the left side of the roof. This next section is the second crux. Step left onto the face with good handholds and pull up to an awkward stance below the roof. The crack above is flared and looks hard. Instead, undercling right around the roof (not hard, but exciting) to a good stance above the roof. Step back left into the crack. At the very top, the crack is flared. I pulled up and left to a ledge. The two-bolt anchor is right of the top of the crack.

Protection 

Double cams from green Alien or smaller to #4 Friend/3.5 Camalot. Single set of nuts from brass to medium. Lots of draws and 5 or more full length runners. 2-bolt anchor. To rap, two ropes or 70m rope, or downclimb the last 10-20 feet if you have a 60m rope.


Photos of Stoner's Boner Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the roof, don't forget the long slings...
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the roof, don't forget the long slings...
A topo photo of Stoner's Boner. Chimney Rock, Mt. ...
A topo photo of Stoner's Boner. Chimney Rock, Mt. ...
Approaching the first crux
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the first crux
Nearing the 2nd roof
Nearing the 2nd roof

Comments on Stoner's Boner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 3, 2012
By Gary Sax
Jan 5, 2004

A 60 M rope will work on the rap; it's (very) close but it does get you to the ground.
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 21, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

--climb up the slab to the left most crack get on a big stance above a little tree and place bomber pro... then continue up left crack..i was told left is much better than going up the right crack but I have never done the right. and left was great so go left!--I have always turned the roof on the right. I have never seen anyone turn it on the left or go straight over. A nice cam about .4 protects under the roof and then big hands help you turn it on the right. The left, I believe, would be quite a bit harder and looks to be less fun than the right. ...work back left to flared crack
By Bret
Nov 5, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Did it twice, two years apart. The first time I did it, I pulled around left of the roof. Then, last year, I pulled around right. Unless I've gotten much better over the last couple of years, I thought the lefthand variation was both more awkward and scarier. The right was great with better pro above the roof. YMMV but either way the climbing below the roof is exciting. -Bret
By Braxtron
From: ...
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My 60m rope did NOT touch the ground. There was a bit of downclimbing, but it's on easy territory.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

You can also just rap (slightly right as you face the rock) to the big block where Centerpiece starts, downclimbing that thing is easier than downclimbing off the end of the rope hanging straight down..
By dcohn
Jul 15, 2007

Make sure you use long slings under the upper roof, otherwise the drag will be really bad. Fun route with some unexpected challenges. Easy walk off.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 15, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I change my mind, this is a classic route..A great Mt Lemmon scarefest for the fledgling 5.9/5.9+ trad leader..Mistaken Identity has some scarier pro in one certain area, but Stoner's Boner gives you so many more chances to hang out and think "what the hell am I doing here, what was I thinking getting on this thing?" before committing to the next sketchy section...

The first time I led it I also went left to the easier ledge left of the top crack, but I didn't consider it sent until I went back and went straight up the top crack.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 1, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New, all stainless steel anchor placed on 1/31/08. Hardware donated by Renob Climbing.

Sorry, but I don't know how to remove buttonheads, so the old anchor still there, complete with spinning cold shut.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 1, 2008

"Sorry, but I don't know how to remove buttonheads, so the old anchor still there"

Try this - safeclimbing.org/education/how...
By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Jan 13, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are two variations to the finish. From the top of the "boner" you can go left into the thin crack as described here or you can go straight up and then right to the wider hand crack and face. Both variations are of similar difficulty (about 5.9) and fun. A number of years ago, Dave Jones and I did a variation that turned the "boner" on the left. As I recall, it was more stout climbing (maybe 5.10+) to get past the overhang. IMHO, the standard variation that turns the "boner" on the right is the way to go.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route is fun to lead! I'm not usually a "puller of roofs", but really if you go around right, not bad. Awesome pro, exciting crux areas. You really ought to extend those runners under the roof, even pieces 5 or 6 ft under the roof-lesson learned/rope drag made the top a little spicy. And 60 meter rope will not reach the ground, but gets you to a good enough stopping point, just be aware. Do this, it's great!
By Dwook
Apr 13, 2010

I solo aid climbed this for practice last year...Its a ton of fun a must do.
By David Lammers
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2011

Our 57 meter rope (missing about 8 feet on one end) reached the ground with stretch on the rappel. A 0.5 BD cam in the pocket under the roof with a shoulder-length sling resulted in no rope drag as I worked up the left side of the second (Boner) roof and continued to the top.
By HTeale
From: Madison, WI
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route, lots of fun. We did a trad lead up George's Buttress and then top roped Stoner's Boner. Our 60m rope would have been short if we hadn't extended it with a cordelette by about 4' on each top anchor. We went right on the roof and then left up the open seam at the top.