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Eagle Rock
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Stoner Homeland 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: f.a. Mark Rolofson f.f.a. Peter Hunt (?)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 777
Submitted By: Peter Hunt on Aug 28, 2004

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  • Description 

    Start as for Green Panther, which is the furthest right route on Stars and Stripes Wall on Eagle Rock. After the first three clips of Green Panther, clip a bolt about two feet right of Green Panther's fourth bolt. From the slot, make a surprisingly hard clip out left and climb left via a sharp finger jam/underclings to a tiny left-facing corner and then up to the belay. Finger tape strongly recommended.

    Protection 

    Seven bolts to two-bolt anchor.


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    By Peter Hunt
    Sep 1, 2004

    Mark equiped this route and did it with hangs in '98, so it's quite possible that Mark or somebody else freed it before me. Many thanks to Mark for this and all his many great routes. Stoner seemed a touch harder than Green Panther, so I would guess it's a solid 13a. It's a sustained and clean route with an inobvious sequence, but some of the jams are quite painful. I only taped for my last attempts, including the redpoint, and have a number of ugly scrapes and a numb finger-tip as a result. Tape your fingers right away and good luck.