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Stonehouse Pond

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Geezer Pleaser T 
Amazing Schlingazi, The T,S 
Bald Man In A Boat S 
Barrington Hot Pocket S 
barrington levy TR 
BBB route, The T,S 
Day After My Birthday ( is not my birthday mum), The S 
Desperation T,S 
Down By Law S 
Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal T,S 
Hymie's Last Stand aka Karin's Route T,S 
Joke Book T 
Luna S 
Moe Howard Died For Our Sins S 
Nose , The T 
Roost, The T,TR 
Sicilian Olympics S 
Trundle Drunk Express T 
Rest Day:
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Stonehouse Pond  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.1998, -71.0964 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,519
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Terravecchia on Jul 27, 2012
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You & This Area
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Stonehouse Pond in October. On the far left you ca...

Description 

Stonehouse is arguably the most impressive of the little cliffs in southeastern NH. Situated on the shore of a beautiful clear pond, it is remarkable for this part of the state. There are a good range of routes from 5.5 - 5.13 including 8 sport routes. The cliff is composed of pegmatitic granite and is about 100' at its tallest. It generally faces east and northeast making it a good afternoon destination in hot weather. There's also a great swimming hole along the access trail.

ATTENTION: The cliff and the surrounding 241 acres was purchased in 2010 by the Trust for Public Land, Strafford Rivers Conservancy, New Hampshire Fish and Game, the Town of Barrington and other partners. The conservation of this land is the result of years of hard work. After decades of access issues this has been a gift to all who value this natural resource. Remember, this could just as easily have been a housing development. Please treat the area with respect and do your part to keep it clean. Pack out all of your trash. Better yet, make the extra effort and pack out what others have left behind. Answer nature's call far from the shores of the pond and trails and bury any human waste.

For more information see Todd Swain's Southern NH Climbing Guide due out later this year.

Getting There 

The cliff is located in Barrington NH.. There is a 10 minute approach hike along the eastern shore of the pond.


Climbing Season



Weather station 11.5 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',6],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stonehouse Pond:
The Roost   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 60'   
The Nose    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   
Joke Book   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Desperation   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 70'   
Hymie's Last Stand aka Karin's Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 70'   
Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 50'   
The BBB route   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 70'   
Sicilian Olympics   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   
Barrington Hot Pocket   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   
Luna   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   
Moe Howard Died For Our Sins   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 65'   
Browse More Classics in Stonehouse Pond

Featured Route For Stonehouse Pond
Will Carey sticking the first  crux on Luna.

Luna 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  NH : Stonehouse Pond
Sustained crimps and slopers, long reaches and multiple cruxes. Decent rest at the undercling. Originally rated 12a in 1992, consensus seems to be 2 or 3 letter grades higher. My apology to those sandbagged....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Stonehouse Pond Slideshow Add Photo
An amazing fall morning at the pond, mid-October 2013.
An amazing fall morning at the pond, mid-October 2...
Will Carey on the sustained crimps of Luna.
Will Carey on the sustained crimps of Luna.
The view north.
The view north.
The Stonehouse Pond swimming hole.
The Stonehouse Pond swimming hole.

Comments on Stonehouse Pond Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 1, 2014
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 24, 2012
Not really a route, but halfway up the main 5.7 corner there is a finger crack that shoots out left on the overhanging wall. Great moves, done it on TR and tried to lead it several times and no send yet. My guess is mid.11 with awkward moves and kinda campusy. Might need one bolt to make it comfortable, but I bet you could take the fall without any real consequences. Anyone done it?
By WillCarey
Sep 5, 2012
I looked at this the other day. Could probably be lead fairly easily with a single cam in the middle of the traverse. I don't think that there is much need for a bolt there although I admittedly have not been on it.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 6, 2012
Hey Will, the couple times I've tried it i place a few 2-3 cams in the crack (you realize how low angle the .7 is when you move away from it)to keep from hitting the slab. from the end of the crack i thought that up the arete would be the and proud aesthetic line. Hence the bolt comment. You can continue around the corner and link into the top of the joke or joke book fairly easily. That's the only way I have finished the route. maybe mid .10.
By WillCarey
Sep 12, 2012
Fair enough
I should probably try it before I give a gear opinion. Maybe we'll get on it this upcoming week unless you are saving it.
By burlap submariner
Sep 15, 2012
will, John and I had talked about this at length but I really feel like it can go all on gear, the first couple of pieces are tricky to get it but make it safe enough to keep from smashing the corner on the roost, yellow and red aliens abound, good luck its a pretty stiff 11.
By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Sep 16, 2012
Anyone have any info on the new route on the Flywalk? Was really fun and loved the homemade bolts and anchors. Could make for an interesting sporty ice route.
By burlap submariner
Sep 16, 2012
chepes, 10a, thin sustained friction. And its more to the left of the fly walk staying out of its line.
By Abstract603
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 17, 2012
fosters.com/apps/pbcs.dll/arti...

Scary...lucky...

Does anyone know what route this climber was on?
By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 17, 2012
Idiotic... inevitable...

It was only a matter of time before one of these clowns killed himself or was seriously hurt. Here's the story:

He was on the face called Son of Snake between The Roost and The Nose and was about 8 ft from the top when he fell. I was belaying Mark Richey on a route to the left called Geezer Pleaser when we heard him falling and his friends start screaming. Pretty grim hearing him bounce all the way down the face.
I quickly lowered Mark to the ground and rushed to the base of the cliff to find the guy. He was nowhere to be found so I scrambled up to the ledge above and found him hanging part way over the edge of the big ledge at the base of the routes mentioned above. I was the 1st guy to reach him. He was about to fall again down the last 15' to the water so I grabbed on to his harness and waited for Mark to assist me in pulling him up. He was conscious but clearly out of it and in a lot of pain. He had fallen about 70'.
911 was called and a rescue ensued. Our good friend and climbing partner Will Carey rushed to the pond on his way home from Rumney and assisted us in getting him into a litter when the Barrington rescue arrived and down the steep 4th class terrain to the ground. Shortly after that he was in the chopper headed for Boston.

Will and I have over the last 2 months been climbing a couple of days a week at Stonehouse, usually after work. On probably 8 or more of those evenings, these same 3 guys would show up to set up a top rope in the Nose area. They always canoed across the pond so that they could more easily transport their cooler full of beer. This was to be consumed on whatever route they were climbing. We'd see them rapping down with Bud Light ( only the good stuff) in hand all the time. The empties were to be left behind for Will and I and other climbers to pick up. In fact it was a bit of poetic justice that Jack Rigel, the guy who fell, landed on top of a couple of their empties.
On this particular evening they ratcheted up the idiocy a bit and Jack decided to solo because he was "getting into soloing". During the whole evac he kept saying "Why me? Why me?" Well lets see, Do you think it has anything to do with the fact that you're a novice who can't climb for shit and that you were soloing near your top roping limit while half in the bag? WTF ?
Don't get me going about Aaron.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 17, 2012
Woo Hoo! LOL. Good thing you guys were there or he probably would have been floating face down in the pond. I love how in the news they call him an "experienced rock climber" and don't mention the fact that he was a drunken slob.
By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 17, 2012
Hi Mark, Yeah, the experienced climber bit sent me over the edge and was enough to get me to call the newspaper today and give them the real story.
Hey, At least I got to use my favorite line from the Big Lebowski.
Don't worry Jack - "Help's chopperin' in"

Hoping to take my 1st trip into Greens cliff this fall. Awesome looking stuff you've been doing up there.
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2012
Well done, Joe, both on the rescue and on setting the paper straight. News stories about this sort of thing are notoriously inaccurate, and only serve to paint the larger climbing community in a bad light.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 18, 2012
great, we just get the place back and the yahoos and idiots come out.
By WillCarey
Sep 18, 2012
Just to backup Joe's story, there is no question that this was an alcohol induced accident more than a legitimate climbing accident. A couple of the police and rescue personnel agreed that they thought they smelled some boozy breath on those boys. I wasn't there until the guy had already taken his inevitable plunge but I think that it's safe to assume that they didn't change up their beer quota on that particular day. I would feel compassion for him if he was just some beginning climber (which he was contrary to the newspaper article)who just made a bad decision and got himself in over his head. We all start somewhere and I've made my fair share of poor climbing choices. No sympathy here however. "Why Me?"
By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Sep 18, 2012
SWI-Soloing while intoxicated. Now that sounds like a great idea!
By WillCarey
Sep 19, 2012
This is meant as no disrespect to the person whose homemade hangers grace Desperation and the North Face route but Joe and I will be replacing your homemade hangers with real/tested/store bought hangers over the next few weeks. If you would like the handmade stuff back you are welcome to it just tell me how to get it to you. Your hangers while impressive are thin and sharp and by placing them you end up taking a certain responsibility for them that you may not have thought about. Real hangers only cost $3.50.
By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 20, 2012
In order to reduce the visual impact of the bolts at the pond in the more well traveled areas such as where the hiking trail is, I was planning on painting the hangers.
We used painted hangers on the route The Amazing Schlingazi just to the left of Desperation and if you weren't looking for them, you would hardly know that they were there.

Any thoughts, objections ?
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 20, 2012
Rock and roll, way cheaper than getting those enviro hangers. I 'm sure Burlap would think it's a great idea too, as he had a hand in getting the state to get the property. In light of everything happening there recently, I think anything we can do as a community is killer.

Joe, sorry I didn't get back to you. Doing well with just the 1 beautiful girl, she just turned one. Sarah and I just bought a place in Newmarket, I figured I had too much free time. Anyway, hope to see you out this fall. So local stuff would be great to.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 22, 2013
Do climbers take a dip in the pond afterwards? Is the water nice to swim in?
By Shane Allen
Jun 7, 2013
I've jumped into the pond from the lounge boulder visible from the top of the cliff. The water is pretty nice in the summer time, although I'm not sure if there are any restrictions on swimming.
By beensandbagged
From: R.I.
Feb 28, 2014
According to the Rochester Times, Dated 8/15/2013

not permitted at Stonehouse Pond: bait fishing and ice fishing (anything but fly fishing); ATV and off-road vehicle usage; swimming; and unauthorized camping. Rock climbing is not condoned, but due to the difficulty in enforcing, is left strictly up to the participantís own risk. Electric motors are permitted on the water, but not petroleum-fueled motors. Horseback riding is not advised because the footpaths are not likely to hold up well to such heavier usage. Horseback riding and mountain biking are potential activities on the adjacent snowmobile trail
By Aaron Spicer
From: durham nh
Jul 1, 2014
i have been to stone house a few time its a great place to climb truly beautiful. any ways my climbing partner moved away and id like to climb it again so if theres any one out there looking into climbing stone house let me know i like about 10 min away.