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Yin Pin (aka Stonefish) S 

Yin Pin (aka Stonefish) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Sharon Kloepfer and Mark Rolofson, 7/13/08
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Jan 4, 2013

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Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

About ten feet right of Reach for the Sky, climb steeply past three bolts. An amazing jug/flake allows cranking up over a bulge, to clip the fourth bolt. Because there is nothing positive enough to use from this position, I moved back down a bit, then reached left to a big hold and manteled over the bulge from that side (5.10). I clipped bolts up a slab that becomes invisible under an extensive crust of crustose lichen. Using my fingertips, I removed lichen from a key roughness, teetered up and desperately clipped the last bolt in the slab (eighth overall and in the middle of a big patch of thick lichen), then fell and lowered to a rest. From the rest, I moved left, climbed the upper part of Reach...'s flake, underclung diagonally right under the overhang, reached far right to clip B8's draw, then moved up into more underclings, reached way high and left, clipped B9 (just below the lip), cranked for the lip, and yarded up high enough to clip and grab long chains (5.10d+ to do all of this).

Protection 

Nine bolts to chains.


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By Mark Rolofson
Apr 26, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The name of the route is "Yin Pin". I established this route with Sharon Kloepfer on July 13, 2008. I rated it 5.11b. I thought the start had a hard move at the top of the short arÍte to gain the slab at 4th bolt. The final overhang has interesting moves as well. I did not grab the chains as George did but climbed to where my hands were on top & I could stand on a hold. Interesting that you found the slab dirty. I did wire brush this line. I guess if you stray much it could be lichenous. Perhaps some lichen actually grew back.
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