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Stoned Temple Pilot 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Glenn Cilley 6/95
Page Views: 2,968
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Getting to the undercling here and settling on it ...

Description 

This is absolutely a must do climb. If you can climb hard 5.11 just do it.Thank you.

It is a steep intimidating line up beautiful rock, passing kneebars and other interesting rest spots. Use the rests, you will need them. It has been said that this route is reminiscent of the Red River Gorge and I fully agree. The first 10 feet is low angle and more moderate. When you reach the steep stuff, move left and over the first bulge finding a few choices of kneebars. After a good rest you move up in to the crux involving a few fairly bad holds and a high, right foot to a huge undercling. This where it gets pumpy for me. Take an awkward rest in a corner and hang on through the last few steep moves and mantel to the left to finish.


Location 

The start is right up the hill in front of the crooked birch tree just as you scramble on to the ledge on the left side of the cliff.


Protection 

7 bolts to chains.



Photos of Stoned Temple Pilot Slideshow Add Photo
Double knee bar rest.
Double knee bar rest.
STP with the orange draws on it
BETA PHOTO: STP with the orange draws on it
Starting into the crux section.
Starting into the crux section.
Maryne getting into the crux.
Maryne getting into the crux.
Comments on Stoned Temple Pilot Add Comment
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By Alex Wanko
From: Winchester, MA
Jun 22, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Today the second bolt hanger fell off off the bolt. The hanger is resting at the bottom of the route as a warning to other climbers. The 2nd bolt needs a new hanger and nut before this route can safely be climbed again. I have already reported the problem on the RCA website.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 14, 2009

This is one of my rumney favorites, great line!

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 26, 2010

A 12!!! Damn-it. I couldn't climb this when it was still an .11+

By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
Sep 18, 2012

the route name is Stoned Temple Pilot
just to set the record straight

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 18, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Fixed, Glenn. Thanks.

Beta- From the corner shake after the big undercling moves, I think it is easiest to move left, then angle back right towards the anchor. This involves a barndoory move, but it is less strenuous then going direct, key when you are feeling the pump. It's a really fun route.

By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2013

Finally got on this route today. Wow. Way more technical than your typical steep RRG route. The crux was not where I thought it would be. I think Mark's Beta above is good. I got to find the knee bar rest down low. First try felt .12a to me with the crux after the last, big undercling.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 29, 2013

Amazing!