Stoned Temple Pilot 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Glenn Cilley 6/95 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jan 12, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: STP with the orange draws on it
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Description This is absolutely a must do climb. If you can climb hard 5.11 just do it.Thank you.
It is a steep intimidating line up beautiful rock, passing kneebars and other interesting rest spots. Use the rests, you will need them. It has been said that this route is reminiscent of the Red River Gorge and I fully agree. The first 10 feet is low angle and more moderate. When you reach the steep stuff, move left and over the first bulge finding a few choices of kneebars. After a good rest you move up in to the crux involving a few fairly bad holds and a high, right foot to a huge undercling. This where it gets pumpy for me. Take an awkward rest in a corner and hang on through the last few steep moves and mantel to the left to finish.
Location The start is right up the hill in front of the crooked birch tree just as you scramble on to the ledge on the left side of the cliff.
Protection 7 bolts to chains.
Double knee bar rest.
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Starting into the crux section.
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Getting to the undercling here and settling on it ...
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Maryne getting into the crux.
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| Comments on Stoned Temple Pilot |
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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 14, 2009
| This is one of my rumney favorites, great line! |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 26, 2010
| A 12!!! Damn-it. I couldn't climb this when it was still an .11+ |
By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
Sep 18, 2012
| the route name is Stoned Temple Pilot
just to set the record straight |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 18, 2012
rating: 5.11d
| Fixed, Glenn. Thanks.
Beta- From the corner shake after the big undercling moves, I think it is easiest to move left, then angle back right towards the anchor. This involves a barndoory move, but it is less strenuous then going direct, key when you are feeling the pump. It's a really fun route. |
By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2013
| Finally got on this route today. Wow. Way more technical than your typical steep RRG route. The crux was not where I thought it would be. I think Mark's Beta above is good. I got to find the knee bar rest down low. First try felt .12a to me with the crux after the last, big undercling. |
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