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T-Wall East
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Stone Wave 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gene Smith, Laura Smith 1985
Page Views: 1,671
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Mar 19, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

A great candidate for your first T-Wall 11 (if you can crack climb, that is). Carefully crank a V1/2 boulder problem off the deck and get established in the beautiful splitter. "Surf" through the wave about halfway up, encountering classic locks and jams along the way.


Location 

To the left of Molly and Rocket.


Protection 

A good range of cams and nuts, emphasis on the finger-sized stuff.



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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Mar 19, 2008

A friend of mine thinks this route is soft, especially compared to No More Tiers. I think 11a is right for the lower boulder problem, but who rates the first 10 feet of a T-Wall climb? The rest is more like 10+.

By Rob Dillon
Mar 22, 2008

I would offer a different opinion. It took me a couple of years to sack up and press out that starting move, and I'm pretty sure I pulled up the rack after I stood up. This was not my first-ever .11a, so I felt safe in asserting that the move was harder than that. Of course, no move in the first 10 feet counts towards the route's grade, so call it what you like.

The rest is straightforward fingers.

By bbrock
From: Al
Nov 20, 2008

As for someone thinking this route is soft, I would be interested in knowing if they stick clipped a nut up high to negotiate the start. As for the first ten feet not counting, nonsense. If you can blow it and bust your ass in those first ten feet.... then it counts.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Nov 22, 2008

Hah. I don't consider this route (or anything at the T Wall for that matter) soft. My previous comment was poking fun at the frustrating tendency of T Wall route beginnings being quite hard!

By Brandon Huff
From: Jackson, WY
Nov 24, 2008

I've managed to stick clip a stopper above the opening moves... Saved me on my first try.

By 426
Nov 27, 2008

You can nasty through just right of the mantle (savage bearhug) at about the same grade (11a har har har) with some semidecent pro. Sick route, 5 star.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Aug 22, 2009

It is soft compared to Fly with the Falcon, but that is not saying much.

By mike cork
From: Atlanta, GA
Dec 20, 2010

have wanted to get on this for a while and finally did a few weeks ago. couldn't even get past the start...shameful utter smack down. i don't see how that start is v1/v2...maybe a seriously high gravity day or very poor beta...dunno.

By Will Sweeney
From: Bakersfield, California
Jan 21, 2014

More like a V3/V4 start. Be sure to warm up well or your tendons will pay for it.