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Stone Temple Pilots aka (Rumors of War)
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 37
votes
Routes in Broom Wall/Rasputin Ledge
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441 S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Acquiescence S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Alpine Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Altered States S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bad Press S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Hole, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drop Zone, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Homeboy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Magnificent 7, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Old and in the way T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Puff the magic dragon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rambo S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Rasputin D. Scaliwag S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Rumors of War (Extension) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Saddam Hussein S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scalded Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spellbound S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stone Temple Pilots aka (Rumors of War) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Swiss Chocolate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tempest S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Warm up route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Witches Broom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | FFA Steve Goins, bolted extension David Frazier |
| Page Views: | 3,503 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | chummer on Jan 13, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
Originally done by Steve Goins as a ridiculously pumpy gear climb this amazing route was later retro bolted. Super steep and unrelenting. No hard moves really but quite the pump. A most inspiring line.
A somewhat loose 40 foot section starts things off but at the ledge rock quality improves. Fun crack moves, jugs, and a few crimps get you to a rest. A big move takes you to the juggy roof. The upper headwall is steep and pumpy.
The climbing isn't over at the shuts. Move left at the anchors for more steep juggy moves. This allows you to climb all the way to the very top of the cliff. You could mantle the lip even. A long pitch. Done this way it's perhaps 5.12 c/d.
A somewhat loose 40 foot section starts things off but at the ledge rock quality improves. Fun crack moves, jugs, and a few crimps get you to a rest. A big move takes you to the juggy roof. The upper headwall is steep and pumpy.
The climbing isn't over at the shuts. Move left at the anchors for more steep juggy moves. This allows you to climb all the way to the very top of the cliff. You could mantle the lip even. A long pitch. Done this way it's perhaps 5.12 c/d.
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