|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||FA 1987 Wayne Wallace & Robert McGown FFA June 1987 McGown & Dan Wright (Prior FFA? Joe Healy & Tangen Foster)|
|Page Views: ||249|
|Submitted By: ||peachy spohn on Sep 11, 2011|
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|Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>|
Stone Rodeo offers fun and interesting moves, but the aesthetic is decreased because of a few loose blocs. The first mini roof offers your first crux, but is followed by a good shake. After resting use a very interesting undercling (a slopperyesque downward point to the left) and then match it to move up and right. The final roof is the business. Jam the hand size crack with the left (I have big hands) and then shoot up and right towards the bloc. Just before the moves to the jam you have a good rest...place a longer runner on the bolt here. I hope with this little extra beta more of you will get on it and Stone Rodeo will become better!
One of the first routes you get to, Stone Rodeo tackles the imposing wall that is sectioned with two small roofs and one final big one. You can see the big beefy grey bolts.
Bolts, nice and beefy. A few pitons. A number 6 metolius cam for final roof. (I thought the anchors could be lowered to near the skinny tree and will check to see if it can be done..as of now you must go 15 feet above final roof, making bad rope drag and letting the rope rub a bit to much).
|By James Markett|
May 22, 2012
The first free ascent of this route was done by McGowan and Wright, not by Healy. Healy tried to claim first free ascent many years after the fact saying that he climbed it before the first ascentionists so that he could try to justify his retro bolting of the climb.
May 22, 2012
Excuse me? And who are you? The climb as not been retrobolted - it was rebolted (and you're welcome).