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The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.
After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.
33 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Stone Mountain South Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stone Mountain South Face:
The Great Arch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
No Alternative 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
U Slot 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Block Route 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
The Pulpit 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
Grand Funk Railroad 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Mercury's Lead 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Fantastic 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470'
Great White Way 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Dixie Crystals 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Electric Boobs 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Storm in a Teacup 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Rainy Day Women 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Banana Breath 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Sport, 2 pitches, 280'
Between The Ways 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13 Sport, 2 pitches, 250'
Fleet Feet 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Great Brown Way 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Captain Crunch 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Purple Daze 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 600'
Featured Route For Stone Mountain South Face
Mercury's Lead 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
Climb to the very high first bolt. Clip it with great relief, and continue up past one more bolt to several belay options. Either belay at a flake on gear, The Great Arch bolts, or the belay atop "Storm In A Teacup." From the "Storm In A Teacup" belay, move out right past a short flake/crack (possible to get gear) and climb a long, but easier pitch past one bolt to an anchor just below the top (there may be one more bolt on this pitch, I can't remember)....[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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