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Stone Mountain South Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks 
Banana Breath 
Between The Ways 
Block Route 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home 
Captain Crunch 
Closer to the Heart 
Crystal Lizard 
Dirty Crack 
Dixie Crystals 
Electric Boobs 
Entrance Crack 
Face Value 
Fantastic 
Father Knows Best 
Fleet Feet 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 
Grand Funk Railroad 
Great Arch, The 
Great Brown Way 
Great White Way 
Mcgrady's route 
Mercury's Lead 
No Alternative 
Pandora's Way 
Peer Pressure 
Pulpit, The 
Purple Daze 
Rainy Day Women 
Rice Krispies 
Scimitar 
Storm in a Teacup 
Strawberry Preserves 
Toilet Bowl 
U Slot 
White Way Direct 
Yardarm 
Unsorted Routes:

Stone Mountain South Face 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 500'
Location: 36.3916, -81.0473 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 119,885
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006
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A nice view of the south face with several climbin...
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Description 

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.


Getting There 

After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.


37 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',14],['5.10',9],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stone Mountain South Face:
The Great Arch   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
No Alternative   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
U Slot   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Block Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
The Pulpit   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   
Dirty Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Yardarm   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Grand Funk Railroad   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Dixie Crystals   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Mercury's Lead   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   
Fantastic   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470'   
Great White Way   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Storm in a Teacup   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Electric Boobs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 280'   
Rainy Day Women   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Banana Breath   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Fleet Feet   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Between The Ways   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   
Captain Crunch   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Classics in Stone Mountain South Face

Featured Route For Stone Mountain South Face
Pitch 1 on Great White Way, Stone Mountain, NC.

Great White Way 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
This is the quintessential water groove route at Stone Mountain and like the guide book says...if your heart ain't racing and you ain't having fun...you must be dead.Start from the very left edge of the Tree Ledge. Look for the second water groove past the Great Arch.Pitch 1: Climb the water groove on the left side past 2 bolts, then step into the groove and climb past 2 more bolts to the anchor at a stance on the left of the groove. 5.9, 110 feet.Pitch 2: Ready to get your groove on? Climb...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Stone Mountain South Face Slideshow Add Photo
one of the great view's @top of stn mtn.
one of the great view's @top of stn mtn.
start of great arch. no pro! man stick a cam in there.
start of great arch. no pro! man stick a cam in th...
broad view of south face showing many of the classics.
broad view of south face showing many of the class...
south face
south face
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