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Elevation: 500 ft
GPS: 36.3916, -81.0473
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

Description Suggest change

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.

Getting There Suggest change

After entering the park, drive past the visitor center (which will be on your right) about two miles down the main park road to the Lower Trailhead parking on your left, and park. Start the walk in, and turn right at the fork (follow the sign for the Hutchinson Homestead), and keep on the main trail until you can see the historical homestead on your left (several restored buildings). From here, either go through or around the farmstead site to a trailhead in the woods to climber's right of the homestead, where you'll find a small climber's registration box. Go up the small climber's trail to the rock.

66 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Stone Mountain South Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Stone Mountain South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 364
The Great Arch
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 133
No Alternative
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 109
U Slot
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 173
Block Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 94
The Pulpit
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Dirty Crack
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 54
Grand Funk Railroad
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 31
Mercury's Lead
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
Great White Way
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 24
Fantastic
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 24
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 30
Rainy Day Women
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 23
Storm in a Teacup
Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
The Purring
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 10
Captain Crunch
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Arch
 364
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
No Alternative
 133
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
U Slot
 109
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Block Route
 173
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
The Pulpit
 94
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Dirty Crack
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Grand Funk Railroad
 54
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Mercury's Lead
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Great White Way
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fantastic
 24
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go…
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Rainy Day Women
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Storm in a Teacup
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport 3 pitches
The Purring
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Captain Crunch
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Stone Mountain South Face »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest
Sunny Roughly 10am to 3pm during high season
6am
8pm

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