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Source of Madness 
Stone Monkey 
White Zombie 

Stone Monkey 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Erik Mushial
Page Views: 2,181
Submitted By: Peter Beal on May 10, 2008
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danny on stone monkey
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


To the right of Mushroom Planet is a dihedral-like feature with an undercling hold near the end of it. Stick clip the first bolt and a directional and boulder (V7?) to the undercling and romp up the jugs above.

A very popular and relatively soft option for the grade but a good climb nevertheless. The sitstart seems a bit much--maybe try another route.


5 bolts

Photos of Stone Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Nadya cranking hard on the moves right before the crux of Stone Monkey
Nadya cranking hard on the moves right before the ...
Copyright: Greg Shyloski
Copyright: Greg Shyloski
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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 10, 2008

I've heard many people call this soft... I thought it felt wicked hard so i think i need some good beta... anyone want to spray some?...

By James Otey
From: NH
May 10, 2008

I've heard people call this anywhere from V7-V9... Beta would be great!

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
May 11, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

You know what the hardest thing about sending Stone Monkey is, right?

Telling your friends you're a boulderer.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 11, 2008

haha...well im not ready to go down that road...

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 12, 2008

Per comments on Doctor No, this was another obvious route to be added. Rumney climbers help out those of us who want to visit!

By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Jun 23, 2010

I'd give the boulder problem at the bottom V8 and the top half maybe 5.11d. Not sure what that adds up to, but it felt pretty stout to me.

By Morgan Patterson
Aug 28, 2013

i have beta, well most of it, if u guys want the low down feel free to pm me. . . easy depends on your compression skillz.

By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Sep 6, 2013

Was this thing named after the old Johnny Dawes movie?

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 12, 2013

I find it funny that this route's quality rating is evenly split between 1, 2, 3 and 4 stars... perhaps the least agreed on quality rating at Rumney... haha

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 24, 2013

I figured out beta for this today and found it to be better than i thought... maybe a 2 star... i wasn't able to link it today but it felt doable and i will get back on it...