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Stone Hinge 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson
Page Views: 395
Submitted By: yevquest on Jan 6, 2012
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Description 

Another great route in the Paradise Falls amphitheater, Stone Hinge is the striking bolted dihedral on the right of the falls. Begin by climbing fun, overhanging jugs for 40 feet to the base of the dihedral. A sneaky rest can be had here while you don your thinking cap. There's a lot of holds here, figure out your sequence and get after it. Like most dihedrals, footwork is very helpful. At the top of the dihedral a last puzzle awaits, how do you get out of this thing? Once surmounted, the last 20 feet are fun fluff, leading to a small ledge with chain anchors.


Location 

On the right side of the Paradise Falls amphitheater. Locate the overhanging dihedral halfway up the wall. This routes and Gates of Testosterone share the same first few bolts before Gates breaks left.


Protection 

Bolts



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By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Jan 6, 2012

The first half of this route makes a nice, quick warmup (5.10+), something lacking in this area.