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Start up a right-leaning seam to a high 1st bolt. The crux is finding a stance to place a cam before that bolt. Then leave the seam and head up left past a 2nd bolt (an antique bolt is located about 20 feet left of this 2nd bolt, but it's not clear what that's for). Trend up left of the shallow alcove that marks the end of the "Seams Novel" route, marked by a chained rap station.
I sort of lost the Stone Hammer here, and it appears that things might have changed since Handren's description (2007:292-293). Handren may have the topo plotted too far left (?). There are supposed to be 2 more bolts that lead to the top, but the only other bolt I found was about 25 feet directly above the Seams Novel rap anchors. Now, the current Seams Novel rap anchors are about 10-15 feet left of the location shown by Handren, so maybe the original 2nd bolt location for Stone Hammer has been taken over by the Seams Novel anchor, and the bolt I saw directly above that is the old 3rd bolt for Stone Hammer? Confusing, I know.
Anyway, past the last bolt, runout climbing on brittle ledges takes one to a gear anchor in a seam at a rope-stretching 60 m, just below the summit.
Maybe I totally missed a bolt line further out left. Let me know if I missed something or screwed up this description.
About 150+/- feet right of the Great Red Book. Walk off to the west.
3 bolts (maybe 4 were originally in place, but maybe you can still clip the Seams Novel anchor). Single cam rack to hands; also can sling some chickenheads. Handren recommends RP's but I used none.
|By Nick Hamill|
May 10, 2011
Connected with this route, or tried to, by traversing left (~15') from the anchors of 'seams novel'. I didn't find any bolts, but the climbing was relatively easy at that point and I was able to sling a few chickenheads.