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Stone Free 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bradley White, Ted Hammond, 1981-2? FFA Other Bradley White and partner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 24, 2009

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Description 

The crux is free climbed now at (5-11b). F.F.A. Brad. White ( not me) and friends, 1988. Climb up the central dike to reach the traverse ceiling moves left or west. There was a tremendous amount of loose rock in this section. I was leading it and the rocks had to be rid of first, before progress could be made. Ted was belaying at the large oak tree below the dike. When he was ready behind this tree. I pulled out the bottom rock and dozens more flew out, ricocheting all over the place, off of the high branches of the tree. After that event I was able do the (5-9) mantle onto the spike below the crux. I nailed the crack above the roof (A2) and traversed right or east onto the left diagonal upward sidewalk to belay. Ted led second pitch up sidewalk until it ends and then face climbed right directly up (5-6) to summit.
For decades people have wondered who did this climb? The wonderment is over now.

There are three variations to second pitch. The easiest being (5-4) by going up the alcove corner above the sidewalk, the (5-8) directly up from the first pitch belay and the hardest (5-10d) keep moving left 10ft to a slanting crack and head up it to crux face climbing to the summit. The namesake of the route is in homage to Jimi Hendrix.


Location 

It's the only climb that starts in the dike at the highest part of Woodchuck ledge.


Protection 

Trad rack. Possibly 3 old fixed pins in the crux.



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