Stone Free 5.11c R
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Kurt Smith and Alan Nelson, 1990. |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on Jun 9, 2001 |
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Wall of the '90s. Photo: Bob Horan.
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Description This route climbs friable edges just to the right of Reefer Madness. The moves are interesting, the crux sequence included, but a bit scary feeling the key holds flex. In addition certain footholds are very likely to come crumbling off if used. Recommended finish is to merge with Reefer Madness at its last bolt rather than climbing the bolt protected bird shit and bird home crack. Gave one star for the interesting crux and continuity gained by climbing the top of Reefer Madness, just find the solid footholds before cranking through this one.
Protection 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (shared with Reefer Madness). Possible to use small nut to protect easy climb to 1st bolt. Belay off large eye bolt.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 24, 2001
| How about something below the first bolt, either a real belay anchor or a bolt? The climbing is easy but the potential fall is fatal for both belayer and leader. Considering how closely bolted the rest of it is, it seems irresponsible to leave it in its current condition. Alan, what do you think? |
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Aug 10, 2006
rating: 5.11c R
| I found this route to be much better than the credit it has been given. Fun cruxy moves throughout, with the choice of pulling the roof or following the crack... albeit wiping away a little bird shit along the way! =) |
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2008
rating: 5.11c R
| I think this route is almost as good as Reefer Madness. I had my belayer anchor to the steel "ring" until I got to the first bolt. |
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Aug 12, 2008
| I did the same thing as Jeremy. I anchored myself to the large eye-bolt until Dan was clipped into the first bolt. It's easy climbing, but if he fell before the clip, we'd both be dead right now, splattered on the rocks way down below. I tried this climb and couldn't make it past the first 1/3. Of course, I don't climb anywhere near the .11s. There was a lot of bird dookie on this one and birds buzzing my head the whole time. I finished by penduluming over to Reefer Madness since I was on TR. |
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.11
| I think this route is really fun, slightly harder than Reefer Madness, definitely not to be missed. Just clip a sling to the ring, and you'll be fine. The crux has one hold that flexes but the feet were solid, and it's really only one move so "F" it. |
By AOSR
From: Denver
Apr 15, 2009
rating: 5.11 PG13
| I thought the route was pretty fun actually. I did the bird poop finish and managed to touch not one bit of it. |
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 29, 2009
rating: 5.11
| This route has some fun and unique moves, and a tricky crux that is fun to figure out. True, the first bolt is high, but as others have said you can have your belayer anchor to the large eyebolt for protection until you get to the first bolt. Moving into Reefer for the last bolt seemed like the natural line to me. |
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