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 ADVANCED
Sex Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Freezer aka The Fridge, The 
Head Cold 
Head Like a Hole 
Rubble 
Stone Cold Head 
Stone Cold Modern 

Stone Cold Modern 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type: Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pete Zoller
Page Views: 2,368
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Jun 1, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Clipping from the slot.

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Description 

Stone Cold Heads goes straight out the middle of the Sex Cave. Move through two chipped pockets into a strenuous slot that allows some interesting heel-toe jamming. Make the clip and move up onto some slopers for a marginal rest. From the rest, you move up and right onto the rail, and then into the same, very stout, finish as Rubble. Despite the chipped start, this is a great, relentless line on good stone. This could also be sent natural by traversing in from the left, using a sharp, black pocket.


Protection 

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor - the route usually has in situ draws on it and the last bolt is now equiped with a chain draw



Photos of Stone Cold Modern Slideshow Add Photo
Jerad Friedrichs entering the second crux on Stone Cold Modern.
Jerad Friedrichs entering the second crux on Stone...
Battling the undercling, at the start of the final crux.  Thanks to Mackenzie Meredith - our photographer.
Battling the undercling, at the start of the final...
Alek, controlling the swing after you unload the heel-toe.
Alek, controlling the swing after you unload the h...
The very difficult stab crux of Stone Cold Modern....
The very difficult stab crux of Stone Cold Modern....
Comments on Stone Cold Modern Add Comment
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By Tom C
May 8, 2006

Do not be deceived from the pictures on this site. There is easier beta with no swings.

By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a

This is a great route, but better if you take the Head Like a Hole finish. The Rubble finish is just extremely thrutchy at the end with the stab to the painful pocket jug. Fun route with lots of trickery....

By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Apr 4, 2009
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- E7 6c

I am actually a big fan of the "thrutchy" finish to Stone Cold Modern. The boulder problem is condensed and offers great gymnastic movement... so rare for Clear Creek. While the double arete finish to Head Like a Hole is Classic, the straight finish to SCM should not be discounted.

Beta (for top crux). After you reach the good rest at the break (i.e. before the roof--you can throw your left leg over a jug and get a no hands) reach up to the slopers on the HLH traverse until you reach the good slopers below SCM 2nd crux. Heel-toe cam a sloper. Left hand gaston the improbable slot then bump over the lip with your left hand to a decent sloper. Bring your right foot up to a good quarter-size foot then "thruch" to the obvious undercling pinch (it has a 90 degree angle). Switch the heel-toe cam to a toe and stand up taller. Reach the crimp in the crack with your left hand, then bring your right foot up and stem out on a decent foot (with lots of rubber). Get yourself together and throw for a jagged jug out left. Clip. Then just bring your feet up, right hand sidepull (good) and left hand jug (good) to clip the anchors.

How are those anchors doing anyway? Last time I was up there the single Mambo biner was showing significant signs of wear. I have two draws on this route and I would appreciate if they were not removed, unless they are significantly worn (which I doubt they are). Also if you do removed these, please notify me, as the biners should still be good.

By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a

I do the top a bit differently ... I find the "thrutchy" move to be move to the jug with the left hand near the anchors. But, now that you mention it, the move up to the right angle undercling/pinch is a bit of a thrutch as well - a bit like performing a sloppy front lever midroute ... I have been gaining the decent sloper with my left and the blocky undercling pinch with my right, then bumping my left hand left to the middle of the "arete" to a spot with a small thumb catch. I then readjust my feet a bit and bump left again into the jug. This move is always a bit painful and I have a tendency to slam my fingers into the back of the hold, thus provoking the above comments. I am going to try your beta the next time I am up there, maybe it will soothe the last moves a bit. Anyhow, this finish is certainly worth doing!

As for your draws, they are still there and in fine shape. I won't be the lowlife f--k who steals them. The anchor draw could use an upgrade and I will probably do this the next time I am up there.

By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2009
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a

tcam - Your beta seems impossible! Do you move to the crimp just to the left of the last bolt with your right hand with your left hand on the sloper with the slopey edge in the back? Heinous!

By Matt Whiteman
Aug 12, 2011

I placed several fixed chain draws on this route, and several on the right (HLAH) finish. Most of the draws that I removed are worthless deteriorated dog bones and grooved biners. That being said, two of them are still in decent shape. Shoot me an email if you want them back MW61474@gmail.com.