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High Wire Crag
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Stone Cold Moderate 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Richard Wright in '97
Page Views: 8,604
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (212)
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BETA PHOTO
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a truly fun start! Scramble up to a huge jug, and crank the bulge to a ledge. Continue up the dihedral to a huge ledge and anchors. Lower off.

This was originally a traditionally protected route.


Protection 

Cams and wired nuts or 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Quickdraws.



Photos of Stone Cold Moderate Slideshow Add Photo
This is a very well-protected route on the far left.
BETA PHOTO: This is a very well-protected route on the far lef...
Good day in Clear Creek Canyon!
Good day in Clear Creek Canyon!
Stone Cold Moderate.
Stone Cold Moderate.
Cait rappin' and rockin', Fia waitin' and waggin'.
Cait rappin' and rockin', Fia waitin' and waggin'.
Rope on SCM.
Rope on SCM.
Mark cruising.
Mark cruising.
Myong just through the crux.
Myong just through the crux.
Caitlin relaxin at good rest.  1st clip is the hanging red draw
BETA PHOTO: Caitlin relaxin at good rest. 1st clip is the han...
A good view of the crack (if you want to place gear).
BETA PHOTO: A good view of the crack (if you want to place gea...
This is what you'll look like when you get to the top.
This is what you'll look like when you get to the ...
Brady Butler's first send using trad gear.
Brady Butler's first send using trad gear.
Comments on Stone Cold Moderate Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 24, 2014
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 3, 2001

The bouldery start on this route requires a traverse with most of one's weight on the hands to the first bolt - definitely the crux. The rest of the route you can "cheat" and stem the dihedral when it suits you or stick to the right face. Either is fun, so do both like I did. Expect to stumble on rests every few feet, if you want them.

By Morgan Brown
Oct 10, 2001

My first outdoor sport climb. The description is about right--if you can get off the ground, the climb is finished. As such, this is probably a good first lead route. Cool dihedral, very big, very obvious holds, and not totally vertical.

By James Young
Jun 24, 2002

This is a good warm up route. To make the route a little better, climb the face instead of using the dihedral. Other than that I'd give it two stars just for the warm up.

By Steve Kelly
Aug 1, 2002

A really fun route, but beginners might find the start to be a little intimidating. Very bouldery. Also, if you happen to bring a set of stoppers up with you, this climb can be led with gear placed in the dihedral, if one desires. A little spacier than the bolts, but fun and the climbing isn't too hard. If you do get sketched out, just clip on of them bolts.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 8, 2002

A friend and I just did this route yesterday. It's a fun route, but I wanted to mention that the anchors are getting pretty rusted. Plus the left hand anchor is wearing through, at least a 1/3rd of the way. Does anyone know who to contact about replacing anchors in this area?

Thanks. Michael Yarros. myarros@hotmail.com.

By Cobra13e
Dec 30, 2002

Did this route for the first time on Saturday. Have to agree with the previous post about the anchors - they are getting pretty worn. Someone should replace them, or at the very least - rap the route - don't lower someone directly off these anchors.

By Nick Kuhn
May 26, 2003

If you decide to lead this as a trad climb, and you clipped that first bolt with a standard draw, don't forget to use runners for your gear. A fall could lateral-pull your "bombproof" nuts and cams right out and then we'd have to carry your mangled remains down that slippery trail in front of all those gawking tourists in the gambling busses and subsequently cause a rollover accident like the one that occurred on a weekend morning this past March in plain view of the crag. Treat that highway like a 50ft runout on 5.10 rotten slab...minimal contact time. It's really true: the approach is always more dangerous than the climb.

By Mike Mullen
From: Littleton
Aug 13, 2003

Climbed on Aug. 13 2003. Both hangers are very worn.

By Rob Migliore
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great first route, but the start can be a little heady. Otherwise would be a perfect first sport lead as the rest of the route is solid.

By Zach Roth
Feb 26, 2005

I would like to know why this climb is bolted. There is a perfectly protectable dihedral within reach to the left. If anyone can give an answer to the question of why this meant-to-be-trad-climb is now bolted, I would like their opinion.

By Ryan Bibler
From: MT
May 7, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A fun direct start can be done to this route. Instead of moving right and doing the hand traverse below the first bolt, place a small cam in the crack and cruise up. It's a bit of a bouldery move, but no harder than 5.8.

By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Jun 27, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It appeared that this could be well protected on gear.

By Kyle Douglass
From: Golden, Co
Oct 16, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route has a fun start, but is pretty much over after that. Aside from the start and a final move at the top, the run is only about a 5.5+

By Mike Pharris
From: Longmont, CO
May 17, 2008

Fun route for sure. I liked the alternate start up the dihedral on the left - for even more fun, work the route staying to the right side of the boltline all the way up. Fun face climbing on tiny holds, good feet all the way. This variation goes maybe 5.7 or 7+.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Oct 25, 2008

Why was this line bolted?

By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very good question Jon.
There are other lines much like this in CCC.
I guess it is considered to be much like limestone, it is a sport climbing area, so we should bolt everything.

By Nick Orticelle
From: Denver, Co
May 26, 2009

A very easy climb...even for only a 5.9 climber. Was raining when we climbed it and it still felt a bit over bolted. Skipped some bolts just because I'm lazy. Crux is the first move...the overhang at least kept the feet semi dry.

By jcntrl
From: Smoulder, CO
Jun 27, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not sure what the totally obvious "direct start" variation goes at, but it is 5.fun if you brought a trad rack to the crag. I guess you should probably feel pretty confident climbing a bouldery, brief overhang/roof jugfest if you want to try leading this "variation" (that seems like the more natural line to me than traversing into it from the bolt.) V0--nah, but 5.9 maybe. Pulling through the roof protects well with a stopper, but placing gear above that is pumpy until you get to the rest. I just powered through it and never really felt like I'd be in trouble if I had peeled.

There is an interesting variation towards the top if you lead this on gear: protect as needed in the dihedral but stay right of the bolts; eventually you'll find another protectable fingercrack. A thin face move gets you into the business; a blue tricam works well in the horizontal crack, then eventually traverse back towards the anchors. This makes it 5.8, maybe? Try it.

Why in the world was this route bolted? It goes great on gear!

By Brett Bauer
Aug 20, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Pulling the first clip is the hardest move. The rest is 5.5.... If you DON'T climb it using the LEFT side of the dihedral, you get a good feel for what 5.7 leading should feel like!
Also this should be a Trad climb!

By Tony T.
From: Denver, CO
Aug 23, 2009

Fun climb! It's nicely shaded. Also, it's a very popular section of the crag, but 5pm on a Saturday and everyone was gone.

The first bolt is a mother to get to. I actually set a 0.5 Camalot in the crack before I got to the first bolt, just in case.

After that, it's a blast. You can trad climb this route, or you can learn how to trad climb on this route.

By Kevin Craig
May 21, 2010

Ah! You're supposed to traverse in from the right! Doh! I tried the direct start, and didn't have my trad gear with me, and found it harder than anything on 5th of July so I'd say 5.9 at least (but then I'm a fat b*stard, and overhangs with slabby feet are not my specialty - even if they do have juggy holds).

By Darren Buford
May 28, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7 likely because of the tricky overhang-ish start to the first clip. The last 10 feet is fun, too.

By Robbie Flick
From: Denver, CO
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The left, "direct" start feels stout if you didn't bring any gear with you...I would warn the aspiring 5.7 sport leader against this, as it feels quite harder and a fall would be painful.

Traversing in from the right is still pumpy but can be protected, and is super fun. Above the first moves, the climb is 5.easy and super fun!

By Teigon S.
Jun 25, 2011

TRAD THAT SHIT!!! Only way to go on that route, especially for a beginner trad leader, since if you're not feeling brave you can easily clip the bolts on the face, or do it mixed.

By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 28, 2011

I like this climb, but I swear the start is harder than the crux on its close neighbor, "Cracker Jack" (5.9?) Not too bad, but it's probably a good idea to protect the start with a nut in that crack that runs up the dihedral. After that, it's a walk to the top.

By Bal Rau
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 9, 2012

Direct start is a V0 before you're clipped; do it at your own risk. The rest is 5.6.

By John Tex
From: My camper, CO
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The direct start was harder than any move on Crackerjack, which MP has at a 9. The variation still seemed a little harder than any move I've done on a 7, and for all those people complaining about bolts, don't use them! This whole area has bolts on it, so you are not really taking away from the aesthetic value. It was probably bolted so everyone could enjoy it, not just the elitist trad climbers. I myself am a trad climber, and it drives me crazy when people get uptight about a bolted crack at CCC. Sure there are some crags that should not have bolts on them, but here? Really? This is an overbolted outdoor gym, and that is fine by me. We could use a few of these areas where we don't have to be worried about runouts, and this is coming from a guy who loves runouts and sketchy crags. Know what you are expecting when you come here, and don't complain.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 16, 2013

Whoa there, Tex...there are plenty of routes in CCC that might not feel like an overbolted outdoor gym. To stereotype it as such is a bit inaccurate.

By John Tex
From: My camper, CO
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I meant High Wire in general as an outdoor gym, not the whole canyon, but as I said, I enjoy having a few areas like this where I can simply enjoy a climb. Rereading my comment, I think I came off a bit pissed. That wasn't my intentions, I just don't have any problem with bolted cracks at a mainly sport area. You can always do it on gear. But that is just an opinion, and as we all know, especially as climbers, opinions vary. Particularly on this issue. Anyways, enjoy whether on gear or not.

If you are learning to lead on this route, be careful on the first clip. It is a little interesting.

By Julian Harig
From: Denver, Colorado
Jul 27, 2013

Does anyone know what gear sizes are needed to climb this?

By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As stated by others above, this should be a trad climb! It's just as safe, if not safer on gear anyways. Bring gear for extra fun!

Gear: 0.5-3 BD C4s, some wires, and a few trad draws to extend placements deep in the corner.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 10, 2013

In October, Dale Haas and I added quicklinks and rappel rings to the anchor. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 24, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I lost my wedding ring somewhere at the bottom of this route. If you find it, please contact me, because it would mean a lot to have it back.