|The Long Wall
This route has a very intense crux, the rest is fairly mellow comparatively. Start by climbing up to reach the overhang and clip the 2nd bolt. Find the undercling to the right of the 2nd bolt and use the very tight horizontal pockets to reach the bulge and make a powerful move to a positive hold to the right of the 3rd bolt. From here, it's mostly positive crimps to the top. Just before the last bolt, there's a long reach to a really positive flake. The upper section can be a bit dirty. This route is not listed in the Cater guide, 3rd edition.
This is the bolted line immediately to the left of No Way Jose. Start is the same, but traverse left from the large leaning block.
6 bolts? Shuts.
|By Scott Gilliam|
From: Raleigh, NC
Aug 1, 2010
I think this is called Stone Cold Doxie in latest guide. Also said to be 11b. Name might be right, but grade is not.
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 3, 2010
Yeah, I agree about the grade. It's only 11b if I was completely missing some really good hold.