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The Long Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chewy S 
Fifty Fifty S 
Flight Path S 
Flirting with E S 
Going Ballistic S 
Hot and Bothered S 
Maximum Overdrive S 
Menace Alert S 
Minimum Overdrive S 
No Way, Jose' S 
On the Porch S 
Ragged Reaction S 
Rocky Top Hilton S 
Seven Minutes of Heaven S 
Spice S 
Stone Cold Dixie S 
Under the Milky Way S 

Stone Cold Dixie 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Renaldo 2005
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 4, 2009

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This route has a very intense crux, the rest is fairly mellow comparatively. Start by climbing up to reach the overhang and clip the 2nd bolt. Find the undercling to the right of the 2nd bolt and use the very tight horizontal pockets to reach the bulge and make a powerful move to a positive hold to the right of the 3rd bolt. From here, it's mostly positive crimps to the top. Just before the last bolt, there's a long reach to a really positive flake. The upper section can be a bit dirty. This route is not listed in the Cater guide, 3rd edition.


This is the bolted line immediately to the left of No Way Jose. Start is the same, but traverse left from the large leaning block.


6 bolts Shuts.

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