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Stone Cold Dixie
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in The Long Wall
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Articulated S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bombardino S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chewy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fifty Fifty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight Path S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flirting with E S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gimme Some Tongue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Going Ballistic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Maximum Overdrive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Menace Alert S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Minimum Overdrive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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No Way, Jose' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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On the Porch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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On Top of the Milky Whale S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Quarryman's Hands S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ragged Reaction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rocky Top Hilton S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seven Minutes of Heaven S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Six Dollars a.k.a. Hot and Bothered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stone Cold Dixie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Under the Milky Way S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tony Renaldo 2005 |
| Page Views: | 1,629 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Oct 4, 2009 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Description
This route has a very intense crux, the rest is fairly mellow comparatively. Start by climbing up to reach the overhang and clip the 2nd bolt. Find the undercling to the right of the 2nd bolt and use the very tight horizontal pockets to reach the bulge and make a powerful move to a positive hold to the right of the 3rd bolt. From here, it's mostly positive crimps to the top. Just before the last bolt, there's a long reach to a really positive flake. The upper section can be a bit dirty. This route is not listed in the Cater guide, 3rd edition.
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