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Stomping the Cleaver
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Crosswinds
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Anchor Baby T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bends (a.k.a. Decompression Sickness), The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grippin' the Cutlass S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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High Tide S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Parrot Bay S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Power Structure S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Serpant's Rising S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stomping the Cleaver T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Pomeroy, rope solo |
| Page Views: | 913 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | paul pomeroy on Jul 22, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
Scramble up some ledges on the left hand side of the crag to a small pillar. Gingerly surmount this feature, lean right and clip the first bolt. Traverse slightly right and pull a small roof (crux) then head back left to the arete. Climb the arete, switching sides as necessary, to a two bolt anchor on the left. Stop here for the sport route. For those with gear and gumption continue past the anchor to the large ledge and set a belay at the base of the left hand crack. Climb this crack (10.b PG 13) to the summit and a cable anchor. Rap from here to the anchors on Grippin', then to the ground. Expect some loose stuff on both pitches - I did alot of cleaning but only time and traffic will really clean these up. So if you can't handle a little choss pick a different route. That being said the climbing and the position are both excellent.
Location
Stomping the Cleaver lies on the left hand side of the west face of the Crosswinds Crag immediately left of Grippin' the Cutlass. Approach as for Wizard's Gate, but just before you reach the base of the wall, follow cairns to the north past Castaway Crag to Crosswinds.
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