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Unsorted Routes:

Stolen Tiggers 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Stephen Patton
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: camhead on Jan 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Camhead on Stolen Tiggers, 12b, Meadow River, NRG,...

South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Really fun mixed climb. Climb through steep, sequential pockets, to a technical slab, until you are established beneath the obvious body-length roof crack. Fire through the crack, over the lip, and then cruise up bomber jugs to the anchors.

Location 

As you walk downstream just past Depth Charge, the crag kicks into a cave/alcove, and turns 90 degrees to face you. This is the only roof crack on this section.

Protection 

Three bolts at the beginning, then gear, maybe one of each size from .3 to 3 camalots. Use slings, as there is high potential for rope drag in the roof crack.


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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 13, 2012

(more details that I am not putting in the description, so as not to ruin any onsights)

This is a really fun route, deserving of more than the two stars that Mikey gives it in the NRG guidebook. For gear, I placed a great horizontal, runnered 3 camalot at the back of the roof. In the actual roof crack, it looks like you want to put a hand-sized piece in the hand-sized pod midway through the roof. However, if you do this, you will not have anywhere to put your hands. There is actually a really good blue tcu or .3 camalot that you can slide in just behind the pod.

Pulling the roof crack is one of the coolest sequences I've done; it actually climbs a lot like videos I have seen of Fiddler on the Roof at Fremont Canyon, except you are working with a hand jam instead of a tips lock.

Some might think this is a bit soft at the grade.