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(03) Wall of Dreams
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chai Tea 
Crescent Moon 
Flakes Don't Fail Me Now 
Happy Crack 
Lost Boys 
On the Edge 
Sink or Swim 
Stolen Dreams 
Time Bandits 
Turquoise Classic Thunder 

Stolen Dreams 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Mar 12, 2006
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Kevin dreaming on "Stolen Dreams".

Description 

Continuing to the right of the arete with On the Edge is a nice looking climb up the face. The bolts were original set by a Gallup local who was unable to complete the route, so Scott had to finish it off for him! Hence, the name, Stolen Dreams. Though the route setter puts this route at .11a, the crux move, a large lunge, I believe goes at .11b or c.


Protection 

Five bolts to bolt anchors.



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By Scott Halliday
From: Gallup, NM
Dec 27, 2008

Yes, this climb is a good one. It is funny to reflect on the past, Jim had put in the toprop anchors and worked the route a little and realized it might be out of reach for the time being. I then stole it and made it my own. He was working on some other routes at the time so he didn't mind.

The climb has a couple of really good spots in it, a long wingspan reach and a long lunge move right after, not bad if you set up for it. I don't think I had my gut when I climbed that one.