Stoker 5.12b
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Mike on Stoker.
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Description Good route between Crack Attack and The Matrix. Start out pulling the hardest moves of the climb. Near the second bolt you can use a giant sloper for upward progress or traverse left, up and back right. After this section the climbing eases and a few rests allow some recovery. Rest up and head back to harder climbing with a few tricky moves and the redpoint crux high up.
Be careful at the anchors of the large pine trees when the wind is blowing. While I didn't hit them in a leader fall (about as high as you possibly could fall), they blew into me while cleaning the anchors.
Location 1st route on the right side of the Rad Wall, starts by two large pine trees.
Protection 7 bolts to anchor.
Work that sloper, Mike on Stoker.
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Mike gearing up to finish his redpoint on Stoker.
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 3, 2008
| With in the last year or so, Stoke lost a hold or two at the top making it just that much more sustained. I had not been on it for a while and when I got on it in May? around the last bolt you look up and see the top half of a very well chalked pocket tha has no bottom any more. |
By Dave Wachter
Oct 18, 2009
| Great route! I wasn't on it before the hold(s) in question broke, but I think I found the de-jugged spot Lee mentioned, near the last bolt... now there's just a crappy, slopey pinch. I thought it was the redpoint crux. You'll need good footwork and endurance to get you through with enough reserve for the final bit of steep climbing to the anchors.
I wouldn't be overly concerned about choss on this route, despite the history of broken holds. The holds along the bolt line (and I think all of the chalked holds) seem pretty solid at this point, particularly low on the route, where groundfall would be a concern. Speaking of which, I came off once moving through the sloper getting set to clip the 3rd bolt, and stopped well short of the ground with a heads-up belayer. I also took a big whipper high up on the climb, and it was all clean air.
I think this route is as good as any on rad wall (though I can't speak for Against All Cobbs), and definitely belongs on the El Rito "classics" list. |
By Eily from ABQ
Aug 3, 2011
| Just sent Stoker and it was awesome! Boulder problem in the bottom to endurance jugs...sweet:) But, it still makes me wonder how Crack Attack is a 12A.... |
By Dave Wachter
Oct 3, 2011
| Stoker seems at least a letter grade harder than Crack Attack to me (just went back and did Crack Attack again after doing Stoker). Both seem to be solid at their respective grades. Perhaps it's a matter of whether or not you find the best (often less obvious) holds. I never found an easy way through the upper crux of Stoker, but for me the upper 3/4 of Crack Attack was just a matter of continuous pulling on good holds, and a final punch through the fun crimp/pinch sequence to the anchor-clipping jug.
By the way, Eily, congrats on your quick send! I don't think you give yourself or the climb enough credit. No doubt your baseline bouldering skills plus the mad endurance you built up at Maple and Rifle this season helped. |
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