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Mossy Ledges Area
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Stirling Moss 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Harrison, Wendell Broussard, Nick Nordblom, Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: Zappatista on Jun 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Onsight ascent of Stirling Moss....... a kabillion...

Description 

Thin, heady, and varied-- a sustained tick that probably edges further into sandbag territory every time someone climbs it and wears away at the tiny fragile holds. THIN slab to groany flake to odd mostly horizontal moves out a steep section to chossish finishing face (easier). Way more classic than I could describe. A window back in time when balls and mind control made you a climber worth respecting, not who pays you to wear their shoes. When placing a bolt meant you NEEDED it, not because it made the route "popular" or "accessible." Classic.


Location 

The lone bolt on this cliff (the only one *necessary*) denotes the route.


Protection 

A good candidate for a multiple rope pro system and more than one belayer (it's Britishy). Pro can be found way to the right in a crack that you'd have to climb, protect, downclimb, and also by climbing up Soylent to the tree, slinging that, then downclimbing to the ground and psyching up for some interesting catches if you grease. The bolt is old but not horrendous, but as soon as you're clipped in you'll know that you're in for some excitement. Hand and fist sized cams for the flake, small pro up top before the steeps, long slings and experieced belayer(s) are a must. Get shortroped on this one and you're headed back to the car the fast way. Wendell B. advised Meoli that this one was protected from the side on the FA, so you're not chicken when you use all available resources.



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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 2, 2007

Killis, can you give more specific instructions on how to locate this thing and how to get off. Thanks in advance.

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 2, 2007

Karsten, I'll jump in by saying that this route is about 30 feet right of Soylent Greenjeans. The single bolt is visible on the blank looking face about 30 feet from the base of the route. Descend as per Soylent G.

By Zappatista
Jul 24, 2007

Karsten, you may be the first person in history to think that I *underdescribed* anything-but John's right on the money. Despite the other postings on this site, there are really two striking lines on this cliff-the logical thin, varied corner of Soylent on the left and the bolt-in-the-middle-of-nowheresville 20something feet up that: Sterling. If you're standing under the cliff; it's unmistakable. Also, if you're looking at John's beta photo, notice the diagonaling crack 2/3 of the way up that heads left towards the corner-Sterling climbs right into the bottom of this seam. Descent would be easier if you brought sling(s) to toss on whatever bit of scrub that gets you down most quickly-what I found up there was garbage, and the downclimb I did after chucking the rope down sounds like one of the FAs listed on this cliff's page. Here's to convenience bolts never tainting this area-hope that puts me near my usual 500 word count and you closer to sending this rig. Good luck!