Can be crowded by beach goers, but they will polietly move and watch you crank on the boulders.
The difficulty of climbing depends on tide levels and the shifting of sand. It can be a little on the slick side depending on the fog level along the coast.
The rock quality is superb for the most part. So get your shoes one and get crank'n.
Also the town of Stinson is quite a nice little place to hang out and have a nice meal or just take a picnic lunch with you, but don't forget the bottle of nice wine to brig along for after climbing. Box wine is unacceptable here as you're in wine heaven.
Just north of Mickey's Beach off of Highway 1. Go north on the (1) from the (101). There are signs that lead to Stinson State Beach. Hike down to the south end of the beach where all the boulders are.
This is a nice place to go bouldering. Leave a nice big sandy beach and head south into the boulders. Go at low tide for the best conditions. dont need a pad for most problems except for the best boulder at the end that stays dry most of the time.
Went to the Beach 01/15/2011, and it was WARM!!! Headed to the south side of the beach twoards the obvious bouldering area.
Great landings for almost every single bouldering problem. Since There aren't any descriptions here, or anywhere for that matter online for routes on the beach, kinda just made our way around the boulders looking for routes.
An obviously huge rock with an overhang facing the ocean (Old Man Boulder I hear it's called) Has a gnarly v3-4 face climb on it, but it's about a 25 foot boulder. But excellent landing in flat sand. All slopers and micro pinches.
South Face of Old Man Boulder has a bunch of flakes, probably a 5.6 or 5.8 to the top. Depends which flake you go up.
About 5 feet Northwest to it is another rock, with a slight overhang facing south, figured it's a nice V1 up to the top, down climb it for shigs if you want. Gorgeous sunset shots.
Rock just north of Old Man Boulder, facing the north has a route. Sit start on slopers, right heel high, left foot on the tiny foot chip provided. Make way up after mantle to a nice jug, to a HUGE move to a side pull. Probably v2 also.
Only had an hour to explore and climb before the parking lot shut, so couldn't find anything else really. If you're in the area and looking to hit up the beach, bring shoes and chalk bag just in case you want to explore. Lots of stuff to mess around on.
Hi locals. I used to climb here from 1989-93. I did some of the V1 maybe 2. I had a lot of tries on a overhang on the right side of a large boulder that entered onto the other long sloping face. There are long easy climbs here 5.0-5.8 and I down climbed them all. I don't have specific locations of the boulders I climbed and I don't know that, so I won't post them. Some were high and easy very knobby boulders 30+ft far down south on this beach area I climbed. These were very entertaining and fascinating being so high and easy to get up there and back down again. I probably did 20 routes.