Stinky Finger 5.11-
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Mike Howard & Jay Foley |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Mike Howard on May 1, 2007 |
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Description Same start as Utopian Vistas but this variation finishes with upper off-width trad crack to chain anchors. Bouldery start up to shallow corner (Left facing). Crux is sustained upper section of corner from 4th to 7th bolt. "Stinky Finger" was Lady Brett's nickname for D.H.Lawrence. Rumor has it that Frieda uncovered his infidelity by this olfactory clue.
Location Just left of Easy Rider.
Protection 7 bolts to trad crack (One gold and one (or two) blue Camalots for protection).
| Comments on Stinky Finger |
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| A #4 cam is a little better than a #3, but both work. Don't get scared off of this just because it's a 5.11 mixed climb... The twenty feet of trad are only 5.8. The climbing on the arete and in the corner is stellar! I can't usually onsight 11- so I thought it was a little soft at the grade. Maybe I just got lucky?
Definitely a more natural finish than the eponymous Utopian Vistas route (but that finish has the upside of being able to set up the classic Hopper's Hangover for toprope). |
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