Stinky Americans 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | doligo on Aug 13, 2009 |
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At the crux.
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Description Start a couple of feet left of Slot Machine (the huge off-width in the middle of the wall). A bouldery start leads to to a stance; follow a finger crack to the top (crux). It's 5.5 horizontals after the crux.
| Comments on Stinky Americans |
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010
| Deceptively tricky crux. Personally, I thought this climb was harder than fickle fingers and golden dream. |
By Gunkiemike
Jul 28, 2011
| Maybe you were inadvertently on "Completely Francois" (5.10d)?
Edit - Disregard that...CF is not close enough to get involved.
I did notice that it matters which side of the vertical crack you're on. One side might be quite straightforward if you're really tall. Otherwise, you're going to have to work a bit. I'd call this 9+ the way I did it (I'm not esp. tall) but anyone who couldn't reach what I did would be in solid 5.10 territory.
Also, the start is not "a couple feet left of SM". It's almost at the arete (left end of the face). |
By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Nov 18, 2011
| I also think this is more difficult than Golden Dream, especially if you are height disadvantaged. It's also fun to climb the face with side pulls on the left arete. 9+ |
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