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At the crux.
Start a couple of feet left of Slot Machine (the huge off-width in the middle of the wall). A bouldery start leads to to a stance; follow a finger crack to the top (crux). It's 5.5 horizontals after the crux.
|Comments on Stinky Americans
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010
Deceptively tricky crux. Personally, I thought this climb was harder than fickle fingers and golden dream.
Jul 28, 2011
Maybe you were inadvertently on "Completely Francois" (5.10d)?
Edit - Disregard that...CF is not close enough to get involved.
I did notice that it matters which side of the vertical crack you're on. One side might be quite straightforward if you're really tall. Otherwise, you're going to have to work a bit. I'd call this 9+ the way I did it (I'm not esp. tall) but anyone who couldn't reach what I did would be in solid 5.10 territory.
Also, the start is not "a couple feet left of SM". It's almost at the arete (left end of the face).
|By Anthony Nguyen|
Nov 18, 2011
I also think this is more difficult than Golden Dream, especially if you are height disadvantaged. It's also fun to climb the face with side pulls on the left arete. 9+