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The Golden Wall
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Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete 
Fickle Fingers 
Golden Dream, The 
Jam On! 
Scoop Arete 
Scoop Face 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) 
Skink Redirect 
Slot Machine 
Stinky Americans 
Super Skink 
Time for Therapy 

Stinky Americans 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,299
Submitted By: doligo on Aug 13, 2009
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At the crux.


Start a couple of feet left of Slot Machine (the huge off-width in the middle of the wall). A bouldery start leads to to a stance; follow a finger crack to the top (crux). It's 5.5 horizontals after the crux.

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By Denis O'Connor
Mar 9, 2010

This route is leadable at PG.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010

Deceptively tricky crux. Personally, I thought this climb was harder than fickle fingers and golden dream.

By Gunkiemike
Jul 28, 2011

Maybe you were inadvertently on "Completely Francois" (5.10d)?

Edit - Disregard that...CF is not close enough to get involved.

I did notice that it matters which side of the vertical crack you're on. One side might be quite straightforward if you're really tall. Otherwise, you're going to have to work a bit. I'd call this 9+ the way I did it (I'm not esp. tall) but anyone who couldn't reach what I did would be in solid 5.10 territory.

Also, the start is not "a couple feet left of SM". It's almost at the arete (left end of the face).

By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Nov 18, 2011

I also think this is more difficult than Golden Dream, especially if you are height disadvantaged. It's also fun to climb the face with side pulls on the left arete. 9+