Stinkbug aka Lonestar  V10-11

323 page views Good page?

Type:  Boulder, Alpine Consensus:  V10-11 [details] FA:  Tommy Caldwell Season:  Spring and Fall 50 degrees and below Submitted By:  tcamillieri on Aug 24, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Fragile Alpine Area MORE INFO >>> This is a fragile alpine bouldering area and following Leave No Trace principles is important. Never stash pads. Do not alter landings, chip or glue holds, or remove or alter vegetation. Walk on hard surfaces such as boulders or established trails. Store your gear on boulders instead of dirt or vegetation. Clean up spilled chalk and tick marks and brush holds. Keep your presence low key and unobtrusive. Pack out everything you brought and anything else that shouldn't have been left there. RMNP rangers are very aware of the impact that bouldering has on this environment. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

There are two independent cruxes for this problem. The first is the first two moves involving a long tension-filled right hand slap and a hard match (try keeping your feet on). The second involves going to a slopy hold and then a better albeit higher crimp, a committing heel hook helps.

Location 

Upon finding the ridge-line of talus from the Glacier Gorge parking like hike downhill until the talus begins to become more scattered. If approaching from this direction Stinkbug will be slightly on your left and the problems will be hidden on the opposed face.

Protection 

2 pads and a spotter for the heel hook crux.